Growers discuss strategies to achieve balanced ripeness

Napa, Calif.—On Mar. 8, Napa winegrowers gathered at Napa's Copia for "The Future of Napa Valley: Beyond Hang Time," a half-day seminar sponsored by Napa Valley Grapegrowers. The conference included discussions of Napa's weather, climate and soils, as well as an overview of strategies for achieving balance and ripeness.

Deborah Elliott-Fisk, of UC Davis, predicted that Napa Valley's soils will not change during the next 100 to 1,000 years, and will not be affected by global warming. Only the soil's top surface can be altered, with chemicals or ripping, she said. Increased heat and decreased soil moisture will make irrigation management essential. During the next 50 to 100 years, the number of degree-days may increase in the southern parts of the valley, but the mountaintop conditions should remain the same. By 2055-2075, temperatures are likely to increase by 8-9ºF, with a variable change in precipitation. Despite the changes, Elliott-Fisk said she is confident that growers can adapt. "I think the answer is clearly ‘yes,'" she said.

Rick Snyder, also of UC Davis, presented the results of a study on Napa weather patterns, as recorded by Napa State Hospital between 1917 and 2006. Surprisingly, most extreme temperature events took place before the 1980s. "All my life people have been saying the weather is unusual," Snyder said. Extreme high temperatures haven't changed since the 1950s, while extreme low temperatures have increased, making frost less likely today. The study shows that there is less risk today of extreme rainfall, extreme high temperatures and extreme low temperatures than there was prior to 1988. From a grower's standpoint, Snyder said, the weather has actually improved in Napa. However, what will happen in the future, due to global warming, is uncertain.

The second half of the conference focused on strategies for achieving ripeness and balance. Wine consultant Larry Brooks pointed out that, until 20 years ago, the wine industry dictated concepts like ripeness and quality to the public. Today, these things are defined by a handful of critics and publications. Now, he said, "The game is about intensity."

Michael Silacci, Opus One winemaker, emphasized the importance of long-range thinking in the vineyard. "Ripeness begins with absolute quality in mind," he said, and "pruning determines wine quality." Highly skilled vineyard workers, with the proper education and experience, are essential. A former "numbers guy" when it came to ripeness, Silacci said he has expanded his definition of ripeness. Silacci compared the flavor of an unripe berry to Tang orange drink—rather flat—while a ripe berry tastes more rounded, like fresh-squeezed orange juice. "The trick is to make powerful wines with finesse," he said.

Bob Wample, of California State University, Fresno, spoke about finding management strategies that work for each grower. "There's no silver bullet," he said. "Everyone has a unique set of conditions." The keys to microclimate management, he said, are setting vineyard- and cultivar-specific goals and understanding how to achieve those goals.

Many of the day's speakers stressed the importance of irrigation management in balanced ripening, including Steve Matthiasson, of Napa's Premiere Viticultural Services. Plant water stress is not reversible, Matthiasson told attendees. As water stress increases, roots die or become nonfunctional. It's helpful to think of the roots and canopy as "hormone factories," he said, and to allow stress to develop at key times, when it will be beneficial.

Silverado Farming Company's Pete Richmond put the ripening issue in another perspective. "It's all about the money," he said, growing great fruit for top dollar. He advised growers not to overlook older rootstocks, like St. George, and to take row orientation into account when determining leafing practices. Differential picking—picking different areas of the vineyard according to ripeness—is also a useful strategy in achieving balanced ripeness.

Resolving the "hang time" debate, Richmond said, is a matter of developing good grower-winemaker relationships—each side should have a clear understanding of what the other wants and expects. When implementing new vineyard practices, growers should explain to their workers not only how they want things done, but why. This will increase the likelihood that the job will be done correctly and consistently. Perhaps most importantly, "Remember that the winery is your customer," Richmond said. Be sure to taste the wines that are being made from your grapes to get a better understanding of what each winery is trying to accomplish.

—Tina Caputo

quelle: http://www.winesandvines.com

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