L’Extravagant de Doisy-Daëne 2006 Sauternes 18 Drink 2010-20

Ch Climens 2006 Barsac 18+ Drink 2012-30

Tasted as usual from many different barrels before the final assemblage although we did taste several pre-assemblages, including two samples which differed by just 10% in terms of their ingredients and yet tasted completely different. Spooky, and partly a question oak age, but still very elucidating. 16 days and 4 stages of harvesting, 13 September - 4 October. The total harvest was less than half that of 2005 but within the average for the last 10 years. Near catastrophe when there was a violent wind storm on 5 October, causing a 36-hour power failure and they had to get an emergency generator to operate the press right through the night. To quote Bérénice Lurton: ‘We end up having a strong nervous system in Sauternes!’ If Yquem was a big step above the rest, Climens was at least half a step above the rest. Very complete and dense with wonderfully smooth texture if in some cases a little lighter than some years with a distinctly green tang to some lots. Still some astringency but very fine tannins. Good concentration and good acidity too.

Ch d’Yquem 2006 Sauternes 19 Drink 2015-35 

Unbelievable wine – with so much more concentration and richness than the other examples of 2006 Sauternes tasted immediately beforehand. Yet with no shortage of life either. Amazing smoothness, richness and depth spreads all across the palate – even better than I remember the 2005 at this stage. Edge of caramel already but the tingle of fresh green verdure. Great texture and lift and weight of sweetness. No volatility apparent whatsoever (unlike some others) – in fact Pierre Lurton said the VA levels were lower than in the last 30 years. Great finesse – wonderfully pure.