March 30, 2007 -

Oliver Styles, and Jane Anson in Bordeaux

The 2006 St-Emilion classification has been temporarily suspended by an administrative tribunal in Bordeaux citing 'serious doubt' over the legality of the classification process.

According to news agency AFP, the tribunal ruled that there was 'serious doubt over the legality' of the classification and that it was possible that some chateaux had been discriminated against.

The tribunal upheld the complaints of Chateau La Tour du Pin Figeac, Chateau Cadet Bon, Chateau Guadet and Chateau de la Marzelle, who were all demoted at the last ten-yearly reclassification of Saint Emilion, announced in September 2006.

The tribunal effectively agreed that there were problems with a partisan jury, that the candidatures were not treated equally, and that only seven of the 95 chateaux involved were visited in person.

'It is a common sense decision,' said Philippe Thevenin, the lawyer representing the four properties which took the case to court.

It is reported that three more St-Emilion Grand Cru estates will challenge the very nature of the classification as established by the INAO.

Today's interim ruling anticipates a comprehensive legal probe into the way the 2006 classification was organised – to be held at a later date.

However according to Thevenin, the court's interim decision means that for the time being, no St-Emilion classification exists. The previous ranking, drawn up in 1996, is no longer applicable after 10 years.

The ruling comes exactly one month after a Bordeaux court annulled the 2003 Crus Bourgeois classification for similar reasons. Both cases bear many similarities, with declassified chateaux owners asking questions about the impartiality of the classification jury.

Among the 10 jury members for the St-Emilion classification were two courtiers and a Bordeaux lawyer who was an advisor to one of the top-ranked chateau in the appellation.

It is understood that their presence on the jury has been questioned although observers say it is perfectly natural for such a jury to contain some members with vested interests.

Guy Petrus Lignac of Chateau Guadet told decanter.com, 'It's a shame that this has happened on the eve of the primeurs, as it sullies the image of Saint Emilion a little, but we can not pretend everything is perfect if it isn't.'

Eric Agostini, the lawyer who successfully had the cru bourgeois classification annuled last month, said that the decision to annul a second jury-based ranking, 'throws a terrible suspicion on the Bordeaux classification system as a whole.'

No date has been set for a full investigation.
quelle: www.decanter.com

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grunerner altenberg,

sehr offene laktische nase, butter, sahnig - bsa note, mit frischem gras & grüner birne, tiefe fehlt etwas. am vorderen gaumen schöne süsslich buttrige note, ab mitte wird der wein etwas grünlich & der extrakt fehlt, wein wird "dünner" nach hinten weg, zum abgang hin fehlt der druck, alles in allem ein noch guter wein - aber das schwächste vom weingut koepfer bis dato.

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I was asked the other day what the effect of global warming will be on the wine industry.

It’s a query wine scientists have been pondering for some time, and lately a handful of winemakers are asking themselves whether the higher alcohol levels we have seen in many table wines are related to this phenomenon.

The question is a lot more than academic to those in the southern hemisphere, where the effects of global warming may well be seen with greater impact. Over the next three decades, said one report I read, the average daytime temperature would rise by about 1.5 degrees centigrade, which could be significant for some grape varieties.

A worse scenario comes from the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change, which projected “a global temperature increase of anywhere from 1.4 degrees to 5.8 degrees Celsius from 1990-2100,” according to a report from National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration.

Imagine, then, that the average daytime temperature in Sweden could be warm enough to ripen cabernet sauvignon, and that Napa Valley would be so hot it would be equivalent to a desert where no quality grapes could survive.

Though global warming is likely to cause problems for grape growing in the distant future, I think wine scientists still have time to deal with this otherwise pernicious problem. I suspect that by 2100 some solutions may be implemented.

One strategy that may well be employed over the next few years is a move toward cooler climates for fine wine grapes. And that move is already afoot as wineries investigate areas that now are too cool to ripen fruit every year.

In fact, looking at today’s wines and forgetting for now those of future generations, I am finding a lot to like in the wines of cooler growing regions. Of the best wines from the United States, I’m most excited about the wines of upstate New York (the Finger Lakes), Michigan, Virginia, Washington and Oregon, and a number of important California regions that are near major bodies of water and thus cooler on average than inland or arid regions.

Among California’s top cool-region wines, look for the following:

Russian River Valley: This area of western Sonoma County, which also includes the smaller area of Green Valley, is widely known for the greatness of its pinot noirs, many of which are some of the priciest wines of this varietal in the country.

Santa Lucia Highlands: An east-facing hillside region in Monterey County, pinot noir is also widely planted here, and the wines are usually splendid, but the area also shows the potential to make top-rate syrahs and chardonnays.

Santa Maria Valley: In northern Santa Barbara County, this cooler region is famed for a wide array of wines, notably pinot noir, but also chardonnay and more recently pinot blanc.

Carneros: Best known for its chardonnay, this area is at the southernmost reaches of both Napa and Sonoma counties, and has recently made stellar pinot noirs that are better than ever. But sparkling wine also flourishes here.

Sonoma Coast: A huge region stretching from Mendocino County all the way to Marin County, and with inland sections following the “Petaluma wind gap” from the sea. Not all of the Sonoma Coast region delivers a distinctly different wine, but it is cool enough to deliver great pinot noirs. Included are a few wines from cold, windy Freestone, an area that may well soon come into its own.

Anderson Valley: A sliver of a valley west of the rest of Mendocino County’s vines, and a superb apple-growing country that now also yields great gewurztraminer, riesling, pinot noir and other cool-climate varieties.

Lake County: North of Napa and into the hills, a county that has almost all mountain vineyards and produces increasing quantities of cooler-climate fruits that make classic wines from barbera, cabernet, merlot and zinfandel.

As time goes by, cooler regions of America may well come into their own as the best growing regions for high-quality wines.

Wine of the Week: 2005 Esser Cabernet Sauvignon, California ($11) — Superb cabernet aroma of cherry and dried herbs, with attractive mid-palate fruit and a soft, silky texture. An excellent value, as are all Esser wines, and all priced about the same.

quelle: http://www.napavalleyregister.com

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March 20, 2007 - Natasha Hughes

France's top wine producers are putting their weight behind screwcap closures.

While the New World has adopted the Stelvin closure with enthusiasm, until recently French producers have lagged behind.

But at a seminar held yesterday at the Bordeaux plant owned by Alcan, manufacturer of the Stelvin closure, French winemakers explained the reasons behind their switch from cork to screwcap to an audience composed largely of sceptical French journalists.

Representatives from Domaine Albert Mann in Alsace, Boisset in Burgundy, André Lurton and Château Malartic-Lagravière in Bordeaux, Domaines Paul Mas from Languedoc, and Michel Laroche were present.

Journalists are not alone in their scepticism, said Nathalie Bergès-Boisset, PR director of Boisset, who explained that the French public as well as the wine trade were still reluctant to accept alternatives to cork.

'We need to get the supermarkets to put their weight behind the move to screwcap, but even before that happens the French press has to get behind screwcaps and explain it to the French public, who still associate the closures with cheap wine.'

Véronique Bouffard, communications director for André Lurton said, 'People in France still haven't understood why they should buy screwcap rather than cork.'

Jean-Claude Mas of Domaines Paul Mas isn't convinced, however, that explanations are what it will take to tip the balance of public opinion. 'I really think that the threshold moment will come once people have realised how practical screwcaps are,' he said.

Alcan Packaging's Bruno de Saizieu said it all came down to the buying power of the supermarkets.

'If we can find a supermarket that will be brave enough to put their weight behind screwcaps in the way that Tesco did in the UK, demand is bound to take off in France too,' he said.

quelle: www.decanter.com

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12,5%,

sehr offene würzige nase, tabakwürze, eingemachte rote kirsche & erbeere, mit luft kommt eine ätherische nase dazu - frische kräuter mit etwas pfefferminze, touch lakritze im hintergrund, schöne tiefe, gewinnt mit luft, süssliche komponente, ganz leichte fast nicht wahrnehmbare klebstoffnote. am gaumen erstaunlich frisch, lockere struktur, aromatik wie in der nase, etwas kirschkerne, feine bitterer touch, trocken, schöne mineralik, steht lange am gaumen, langer mineralischer abgang. sehr guter wein.

2 std.: in der nase erste kleine anzeichen von schwäche, wirkt mürber als anfangs - aber noch im vertretbaren rahmen. am gaumen wirkt er einen touch alkoholischer.

2. tag: die nase zeigt nun mehr an reife bzw. es wirkt alles noch mürber, nougat & trockenes laub, sehr reife himbeeren, getr. feigen & etwas erdbeermarmelade, sehr komplex. am gaumen nahezu unverändert mit dem alkoholischen touch & einer leicht ansteigenden säure am hinteren gaumen. alles in allem ein sehr guter reifer spätburgunder. noch weitere 2-4 jahre auf diesem niveau & nicht dekantieren.

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eine flasche mit starkem korkläufer & einem 6,5cm niveau, farbe wie ein oloroso sherry.

sehr offene & von tba charakteristik geprägte nase, schoko, caramell, nougat, rosinierte trauben, pfeffer, toastbrot, ganz im hintergrund etwas unsauberes.., kräuterbonbons, frischer tabak, frischer oregano, gewisse eleganz. am gaumen leicht pappige süsse, eher kurz, säure kommt hinten hoch, hält nicht was die nase verspricht, aber immer noch sehr gut trinkbar, zu käse oder einer nicht zu mächtigen creme brulee. hält in einer guten fl. sicher noch weitere 5-10 jahre.

2. tag: unverändert, wirkt minimal lockerer in der struktur.

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reife rieslingnase, tabakig, etwas karamell, brot, butterscotch, nasser stein, reifer apfel im hintergrund, schöne tiefe - aber sicher nicht jedermanns sache. am gaumen ein "leiser" ganz eleganter wein, mit dezenter süsse, wieder diese brot...butterscotch und vor allem tabakigen noten, weiche säure, gaaanz wenig mineralisches, trockenen wiesenblumen, helle schoki mit kokosnussnoten .....klingt bekloppt ich weiss, feiner mittellanger abgang. ein schöner reifer alter riesling - passt sehr gut zu altem parmesan!!

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March 13, 2007 - Sophie Kevany

For the first time ever, Chateau d'Yquem is bottling its wine in nebuchadnezzars.

The massive 15-litre bottles - in a limited series of 120 bottles of the 2005 vintage – will cost €12,850 each.

'We are bottling the 2005 in nebuchadnezzars for the first time to celebrate an exceptional vintage,' spokeswoman Valerie Lailheugue told decanter.com.

One hundred of the nebuchadnezzars have been allocated to two wine merchants, 50 to Bordeaux Wine Investments and 50 to its American counterpart Bordeaux Wine Locators. The other 20 bottles will be kept for the chateau collection. They will be delivered in 2009.

The largest bottles of Yquem currently in existence are the 6-litre imperial magnums of the 1982 vintage. In the UK one imperial magnum of Yquem 1985 currently retails for about €2,200.
quelle: www.decanter.com

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Growers discuss strategies to achieve balanced ripeness

Napa, Calif.—On Mar. 8, Napa winegrowers gathered at Napa's Copia for "The Future of Napa Valley: Beyond Hang Time," a half-day seminar sponsored by Napa Valley Grapegrowers. The conference included discussions of Napa's weather, climate and soils, as well as an overview of strategies for achieving balance and ripeness.

Deborah Elliott-Fisk, of UC Davis, predicted that Napa Valley's soils will not change during the next 100 to 1,000 years, and will not be affected by global warming. Only the soil's top surface can be altered, with chemicals or ripping, she said. Increased heat and decreased soil moisture will make irrigation management essential. During the next 50 to 100 years, the number of degree-days may increase in the southern parts of the valley, but the mountaintop conditions should remain the same. By 2055-2075, temperatures are likely to increase by 8-9ºF, with a variable change in precipitation. Despite the changes, Elliott-Fisk said she is confident that growers can adapt. "I think the answer is clearly ‘yes,'" she said.

Rick Snyder, also of UC Davis, presented the results of a study on Napa weather patterns, as recorded by Napa State Hospital between 1917 and 2006. Surprisingly, most extreme temperature events took place before the 1980s. "All my life people have been saying the weather is unusual," Snyder said. Extreme high temperatures haven't changed since the 1950s, while extreme low temperatures have increased, making frost less likely today. The study shows that there is less risk today of extreme rainfall, extreme high temperatures and extreme low temperatures than there was prior to 1988. From a grower's standpoint, Snyder said, the weather has actually improved in Napa. However, what will happen in the future, due to global warming, is uncertain.

The second half of the conference focused on strategies for achieving ripeness and balance. Wine consultant Larry Brooks pointed out that, until 20 years ago, the wine industry dictated concepts like ripeness and quality to the public. Today, these things are defined by a handful of critics and publications. Now, he said, "The game is about intensity."

Michael Silacci, Opus One winemaker, emphasized the importance of long-range thinking in the vineyard. "Ripeness begins with absolute quality in mind," he said, and "pruning determines wine quality." Highly skilled vineyard workers, with the proper education and experience, are essential. A former "numbers guy" when it came to ripeness, Silacci said he has expanded his definition of ripeness. Silacci compared the flavor of an unripe berry to Tang orange drink—rather flat—while a ripe berry tastes more rounded, like fresh-squeezed orange juice. "The trick is to make powerful wines with finesse," he said.

Bob Wample, of California State University, Fresno, spoke about finding management strategies that work for each grower. "There's no silver bullet," he said. "Everyone has a unique set of conditions." The keys to microclimate management, he said, are setting vineyard- and cultivar-specific goals and understanding how to achieve those goals.

Many of the day's speakers stressed the importance of irrigation management in balanced ripening, including Steve Matthiasson, of Napa's Premiere Viticultural Services. Plant water stress is not reversible, Matthiasson told attendees. As water stress increases, roots die or become nonfunctional. It's helpful to think of the roots and canopy as "hormone factories," he said, and to allow stress to develop at key times, when it will be beneficial.

Silverado Farming Company's Pete Richmond put the ripening issue in another perspective. "It's all about the money," he said, growing great fruit for top dollar. He advised growers not to overlook older rootstocks, like St. George, and to take row orientation into account when determining leafing practices. Differential picking—picking different areas of the vineyard according to ripeness—is also a useful strategy in achieving balanced ripeness.

Resolving the "hang time" debate, Richmond said, is a matter of developing good grower-winemaker relationships—each side should have a clear understanding of what the other wants and expects. When implementing new vineyard practices, growers should explain to their workers not only how they want things done, but why. This will increase the likelihood that the job will be done correctly and consistently. Perhaps most importantly, "Remember that the winery is your customer," Richmond said. Be sure to taste the wines that are being made from your grapes to get a better understanding of what each winery is trying to accomplish.

—Tina Caputo

quelle: http://www.winesandvines.com

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March 9, 2007

In an article titled 'Buyer beware' wine collectors in fraud probe say (7 March 2007) we said that three bottles of 18th century wine that William Koch is alleging are fakes, and which are the subject of a lawsuit that Koch has brought against collector Hardy Rodenstock, were bought by him from Christie's between 1985 and 1987.

While Christie's did sell three bottles of 18th century wine on behalf of their client, collector Hardy Rodenstock – a 1787 Lafite, a 1784 Château d'Yquem, and a half-bottle of 1784 Château Margaux – they were not bought by Koch.

Koch's bottles were bought from an entirely different source.

However, Koch does allege that he found one bottle of 1787 Chateau Lafite, which Christie's sold to Malcolm Forbes in 1985, to be fraudulent after the Forbes company allowed his engraving experts to test it.
quelle: www.decanter.com

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bitte anklicken.

Angehängte Dateien: presseberichtvws2.doc (26 kb)

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ein eingescannter text, erschienen am 7. märz im  tagesanzeiger / schweiz. die meisten browser erlauben eine vergrösserung - erst dann ist der artikel gut lesbar.

meine meinung zu diesem, seit längerem dauernden streit um diese flaschen, ist hier zu lesen:

http://sigihiss.beeplog.de/19384_222006.htm

die meldung des britischen decanter gleich hinterher.

FBI investigates Christie's, Zachys for wine fraud
March 6, 2007 - Howard G Goldberg in New York

The US government is probing sales of counterfeit wine and has sent subpoenas to Zachys in New York and Christie's in London and collectors of rare wine.

The investigation was disclosed today by The Wall Street Journal, which said a federal grand jury in New York was hearing evidence and that the Federal Bureau of Investigation's art-fraud unit was holding interviews.

Without citing its source, The Journal said  'the criminal investigation is focusing . . . on whether auction houses, collectors or importers knowingly sold counterfeit wines despite doubts about their authenticity.'

The government could prosecute such sales under federal fraud laws.

Counterfeiting, the newspaper said, 'is beginning to threaten confidence in the market for rare wines - except those sold directly from wineries.'

Jeff Zacharia, Zachys' president, was quoted as saying that counterfeiting technology has become increasingly sophisticated, 'forcing the industry to be more alert for fraud.'

'Both Christie's and Zachys declined to comment on the subpoenas the firms received,' The Journal said.

Angehängte Dateien: tagiweinflschung.jpg (2521 kb)

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notiz vom 3. tag, ribera del duero

dezente feingliedrige nase, rote & schwarze nicht vollreife frucht, etwas mineralität, kalter rauch, frisch geschnittene kräuter, erdbeerblätter - sorry für diesen ausdruck, pfefferminzblätter, gewisse reife, gute balance. am gaumen wunderbare saftige & lockere gewirkte struktur, reifes hintergründiges tannin, frische aber nicht unpassende säure, schöne ausbalancierte rote frucht, cassis, brombeere, etwas leder, unterholz, touch trüffel, leichte mineralische note, langer wieder saftig animierender abgang, etwas von cassis begleitet. absolut klasse wein. weitere 4-5 jahre.

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1964 ist mein geburtsjahrgang. noch allzuviel gute weine findet man nicht in 1964. die bdx die vor dem regen geerntet wurden sind schon nicht mehr die besten. jene die nach dem regen reingeholt wurden machen keine freude mehr - immer mit den berühmten aussnahmen welche die regel bestätigen. da ist sicher der latour zu nennen. cheval blanc soll nach meinungen anderer ein klasse wein sein - leider selbst noch nie probiert. montrose aus chateauabfüllungen sind, top lagerung vorausgesetzt, immer noch ein genuss - von händlerabfüllungen rate ich ab. ein paar gute rioja sind noch zu finden. tja und je älter ich werde umso weniger gute tropfen bleiben über.

heute habe ich eine wunderschön anzuschauende flasche eines barolo vor mir stehen. ganz schweres dunkelbraunes glas. unmöglich das füllniveau zu erkennen, geschweige denn irgend etwas anderes. ein etikett das vor lauter kitschigkeit schon wieder schön und fast schon kultig ist. ein ultra kurzer korken der aber beidseitig mit korkbrand versehen war. das siegel des marchesi di barolo auf dem flaschenhals richtig dick & prägant aufgesetzt. die kapsel war aus staniol wie man es von schokolade her kennt. interessant ist auch die aufgedruckte flaschennummer: 372951, eine unglaublich grosse menge. haben die damals für aldi produziert? ;-)

notiz: sehr staubig & knochentrocken wirkende nase, kalkig, tr. laub, alter balsamico, gewisse reife & komplexität, gaaanz wenig von dunkelster schokolade. am gaumen lebt der wein von der säure die aber schon deutlich macht dass sie bald die oberhand hat - wenn sie nicht schon der boss im hause ist, eher kurz & etwas flach, knochentrocken & hat aber noch gewisse saftigkeit, leder, feines tannin, erdig, astwerk, ein säurebetonter leicht abfallender abgang. alles in allem trinkbar wenn einem die säure nicht zu sehr stört. die flasche hat es mir aber angetan.

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February 28, 2007 - Darrel Joseph

Austria's Traisental region has adopted DAC status as the country's appellation system takes hold at an accelerated pace.

Traisental is the third of the country´s 19 wine growing areas to take the DAC (Districtus Austriae Controllatus) classification. It follows the establishment three months ago of the Mittelburgenland DAC appellation.

With 770ha of vineyards, Traisental is Austria´s smallest appellation. It is also the only one to be characterized by two varietals, Austria´s native Grüner Veltliner, and Riesling.

'The establishment of the Traisental DAC is good for our region,' local producer Markus Huber, who exports to the UK and the US among other countries, said. 'It gives us a clear profile. Until now, few people have known about the Traisental.'

Estimated annual production of Traisental DAC wines is 300,000 bottles. Presently, there are just over 50 Traisental DAC producers.

Although the DAC system has been adopted so far by lesser-known Austrian wine growing areas seeking more recognition, talks of establishing DACs in more prominent Austrian wine growing areas, such as the Kamptal, are underway.

quelle: www.decanter.com

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February 28, 2007, Maggie RosenThe latest cru bourgeois classification has been annulled by a court in Bordeaux, it emerged yesterday.

The 2003 law that established the hierarchy of the cru bourgeois wines in the Medoc was annulled by the administrative court of appeals in Bordeaux.

The repeal effectively returns the Médoc classification to its original 1932 status, and allows nearly 200 chateaux eliminated in the 2003 revision to call their wines cru bourgeois.

The ruling also rescinds the cru bourgeois superieur and cru bourgeois exceptionnel rankings, affecting 87 and nine chateaux respectively.

All Chateaux, including the 'exceptionnel' Chasse-Spleen, Poujeaux and Phélan Ségur, revert, along with the 444 chateaux of the 1932 classification, to a simple 'cru bourgeois' status.

The 2003 reclassification was the result of efforts to raise consumer confidence in the cru bourgeois label by eliminating poor quality wines through a more rigorous selection process. But the process – which saw the number of cru bourgeois reduced by nearly half – was marred by conflicts of interest.

In 2004, a group of 78 châteaux sought, and won, a partial repeal of the 2003 law, but appellants further demanded a total retraction.

Yesterday's decision, predicted by decanter.com earlier this month, was expected by producers and outside observers. One magistrate agreed with the appellants that it was not possible to bestow a new status on 78 chateaux without a re-evaluation of the entire list.

Those in favour of the 2003 reclassification – however problematic – are disappointed in the decision. Thierry Gardinier, of Château Phelan-Segur and president of the Alliance of Crus Bourgeois said the new ruling had sent 10 years of hard work down the drain.

Even those on the side of the appeal, led by Denis Hecquet, president of the Médoc winegrowers' union, said the affair had further tarnished the 'lustre' of the cru bourgeois name.
quelle: www.decanter.com

 

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