wein - sigihiss

Freitag, 29. Dezember 2006

1977 morey-st.-denis - hubert lignier
Von wein-sigihiss, 22:01

ein katastrophaler jahrgang, die 3,5cm flasche hatte ein massives depot

in der offenen nase getr. feigen, datteln, mineralisch, reifes kompott, etwas von rumtopf & touch minze. am gaumen erstaunlich balanciert & süsslicher extrakt am vcorderen gaumen, seidene tannine, starke etwas scharfe säure, nach hinten dominiert die immer schärfer werden säure & der etwas blank wirkende alkohol, aber alles in allem für diese jahr mehr als gut.

2. tag: noch voluminöser in der nase mit noch mehr süsslichem touch, bitterschoko, eine grandiose nase. leider kann der gaumen da überhaupt nicht mithalten, deutliche klebstoffaromen, harte säure. könnte abgestufter grand cru sein...

[Kommentare (0) | Kommentar erstellen | Permalink]

1988 moulin a vent - s.c. romaneche-thorins
Von wein-sigihiss, 17:43

grand clos de rochegres, top flasche

direkt nach dem öffnen leicht säuerlich aber vor allem kurz, am gaumen sehr prägannate säure, feines tanningerüst - mürbe, erst süsslicher eindruck & dann sperrig...kurz ..etwas alkoholisch - dürfte schleichender kork sein...mal abwarten.

2 std.: kein schleichender kork, der wein trocknet immer mehr aus - nun gar kein genuss mehr

[Kommentare (0) | Kommentar erstellen | Permalink]

1988 mercurey clos des grands voyens - jeannin-naltet
Von wein-sigihiss, 17:40

top flasche, 2 cm,

direkt nach dem öffnen eine herrliche reife burgundernase, erdig, etwas trüffel, moos, feine rote reife früchte - vor allem kirsche & erdbeere, touch würze, etwas an marzipan erinnernd, edel & elegant wirkend. am gaumen sattes etwas rauhes tannin - leicht antrocknend, deutliche säurestruktur, wirkt noch verschlossen, spürbarer alkohol, nussig, feigen, wenig an roter frucht, mittlerer aber dafür sehr druckvoller abgang, mit luft dürfte da noch mehr kommen.

ein 88er der die bedingungen des jahrganges gut wiederspiegelt mit festen...tanninhaltigen körperreichen weinen & schlanker anstatt üppiger frucht.

2 std.: das tannin lockert sich etwas, die säure bleibt, aber der alkohol ist etwas im hintergrund, in der nase kommt ein leichter stinker hinzu,

2. tag: stinker ist weg, blasse nase, am gaumen ist der wein wie am ersten tag baut jedoch langsam ab.

[Kommentare (0) | Kommentar erstellen | Permalink]

Donnerstag, 28. Dezember 2006

1962 pommard - labaume aine & fils
Von wein-sigihiss, 18:40

5 cm flasche, ausgelaufen, nasser korken, fast schwarze farbe mit tiefem braun,

blind die nase einem alten madeira zugestanden - talkum, wie ein frisch aus der packung genommenr fahrradschlauch, aber mit tiefe & komplexität, flüchtige, wirklich gaaanz bittere bitterschoko, pistazien, etwas verbrantes toast, nussig, am gaumen wieder diese talkum noten, deutliche aber aktzeptabe stützende säure, aber auch einen tolle samtigkeit & neben der säure eine schöne balance, laub, astwerk, nussiges, etwas verbrannter zucker (-eigene bitterkeit wie von gerösteten mandeln), schöne länge, ich bin mir sicher: dieser wein aus einer perfekten flasche wäre ein echter & somit würdiger 62er! auch so eine sehr interessanter wenn auch gleich kein grosser wein aus dieser flasche.

2 std.: keine veränderung

2. tag: wie am vortag - ein reifer schöner madeira....

[Kommentare (0) | Kommentar erstellen | Permalink]

Freitag, 22. Dezember 2006

US/UK auction roundup
Von wein-sigihiss, 10:11

December 21, 2006 - Howard G Goldberg in New York

In a year in which auction revenues shot skyward, Acker Merrall & Condit reached the greatest heights.

With 2006 revenues totaling a record-breaking $60,253,690, small powerhouse Acker bested a far-larger Christie's, which sought to lead the wine-auction world for a fifth straight year.

Acker's 11 live sales generated $57,929,744, and its 12 monthly online auctions brought in $2,323,946. A hefty share of revenues came from a record-setting $24,685,593 October sale preceded by a huge $10,643,836 January sale, both supplied by the same unidentified West Coast collector.

Acker's auction department is an arm of a wine shop on New York City's West Side that dates to 1820 and claims to be America's oldest.

In its best-ever year, Christie's International Wine Department's 44 sales in eight locations made $58,572,271, as against $42,158,972 in 2005.

In the UK and Europe, 33 Christie's sales generated $30,670,814, up from last year's $24,295,843. NYWines/Christie's held 11 sales totaling $27,901,457, far transcending the previous $15,628,592.

Major developments for Christie's Americas included its largest-ever single-owner sale, for $7,787,136; the introduction of evening sales; and its first online bidding for wine, with $320,000 worth sold through the house's Live system.

Sotheby's global sales total - the second-best in its history - was $37,380,538, generously beyond last year's $29,141,728. (Sotheby's top year was 1999, with $52,323,900 in sales.)

Of four successful sales of single-owner cellars, the biggest draw, the cellar of Russell H. Frye, brought $7,832,755 -the second highest total ever for Sotheby's, behind the millennium sale (with Sherry-Lehmann), which fetched $14.4m in 1999, and ahead of 1997's Andrew Lloyd Webber collection in London, which delivered $6.1m.

In New York, five Aulden Cellars/Sotheby's auctions brought $20,409,590, beyond the $18,597,371 in 2005. In London, 11 sales totaled $16,958,573, as against $10,544,357 last year.

In Zachys' fourth and best year in the auction business, its 10 auctions - seven in New York and three with Wally's in Los Angeles - generated $34,697,566, up from last year's $33,835,286. Its biggest-ever sale recorded $4,779,668, and it sold a healthy 96.81% of its lots.

Hart Davis Hart, in Chicago, raised $13,768,950 in six auctions, up from $9,503,414 in 2005, its first year. The top auction fetched $3,295,929.

Bonhams & Butterfields' six auctions held in San Francisco and simulcast to Los Angeles generated $7,503,784, well above last year's $5,592,253.

Morrell & Company's three brick-and-mortar and one online auction brought in $4,299,281, as against $3,902,990 in 2005.

Bonhams in London generated $2,263,849 in six sales. It said that 2006 was 'the biggest year of the current decade' for its UK wine auctions.

Edward Roberts International, a small Chicago house, held four auctions that grossed $1,568,765, just above last year's $1,563,322, said managing director Edward Robert Brooks.

Internet auctions' rising influence was illustrated by the California-based WineBid.com, which specializes in them and reported $22. 5m, up from $20m.

quelle: www.decanter.com

[Kommentare (0) | Kommentar erstellen | Permalink]

Montag, 18. Dezember 2006

2004 monolith - obrecht
Von wein-sigihiss, 19:31

pinot noir, bündner herrschaft - jenins, dekantiert

tief wuchtige nase nach nasser mineralik, reife rote waldfrüchte, etwas rote johannisbeere, nussiges, am gaumen runder & voluminöser wie der 04 trocla nera vom gleichen weingut, trotzdem kein schmeichler, dicke mineralik, sehr frische & aber reife säure, gut eingebauter alkohol, mundfüllend, rote walderbeere...etwas erdig-nussiges wieder, mürbe tanninstruktur, sehr hintergründiger barrique-einsatz, wuchtiger & sehr langer abgang. klasse wein.

2 std.: der wein verschliesst sich, tannine wirken spröder, tiefe geht deutlich zurück, die mineralik wirkt staubtrocken

2. tag:

[Kommentare (0) | Kommentar erstellen | Permalink]

Mittwoch, 13. Dezember 2006

Myths of Minerality - noch mehr dazu
Von wein-sigihiss, 16:37

Tim Patterson

Fruit and oak have their place in great wine, but the top prize among wine attributes probably goes to minerality—the expression of rocks and soil in the aromas and flavors that end up in the glass. But for all its desirability and status, minerality is only vaguely defined and not well understood. In fact, the one thing we do know is that it has very little to do with minerals.

The great Rieslings of Germany's Mosel Valley are almost always described in terms of the slate soils they come from; for Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé from France's Loire, it's "flint" that shows up in most every tasting note. New World wine regions aiming to match the Old World benchmarks—the Finger Lakes or New Zealand—often feel they have arrived when they, too, can boast of mineral character. Even some reds bask in the warm, stony glow.

Expressing minerality is not exactly the same thing as revealing terroir, but the two concepts are certainly intertwined. Distinctive terroir can show up as peaches or eucalyptus or creosote, not rocks. But claims that a particular wine captures the taste of a place—the goût de terroir—often revolve around vineyard geology and the subtle differences in soil composition between neighboring plots.

One would expect that an attribute this celebrated would be well documented, but one would be wrong. I started my research by whipping out my handy Wine Aroma Wheel, only to discover to my genuine surprise that no trace of "mineral" can be found therein. I fired off a quick e-mail to Dr. Ann Noble, creator and keeper of the wheel, asking how that could be, and she responded, "Minerality is a concept which could never be consistently defined in words or physical standards. If someone could come up with a stone or metallic solution that had an aroma that could be used to define minerality, it could be on the wheel. But the criterion for being on the wheel is that it is objective, analytical and nonsubjective, nonevaluative, nonhedonic."

She also put her personal view a little more bluntly: "Sucking on stones doesn't give any sensation akin to wine flavor."

The same concern about the slipperiness of the descriptor came from UC Davis flavor chemist Dr. Sue Ebeler: "As far as I know, there are no clear correlations of any specific compounds with a 'mineral' aroma. It is likely a complex mixture of compounds which we associate with the smell of soils or rocky areas. To really understand the use of this term, we would have to carefully define it with the use of some reference aroma/taste compounds that we could all agree on. Otherwise, two individuals may be describing the same physical or chemical stimulus with very different descriptive terms—your 'mineral' may be my 'salty.' Maybe then, once we've agreed upon a sensory descriptive reference and terminology, we could begin to identify the chemical compounds associated with the aroma or taste."

Part of the difficulty in finding a reliable, standard mineral reference is that, by and large, minerals don't have much smell at all. The scent of a rock-strewn patch of the great outdoors may be memorable; a single, clean rock in your hand is almost guaranteed to be odor-free. Deposits of individual minerals and agglomerations of minerals into rocks rarely contain volatile aromatic compounds. This helps explain why, when I Googled the phrase "mineral aroma," the results all had to do with body lotions and spa treatments, not rocks.

Devotees of minerality may admit that dry rocks have little smell, but go on to clarify the sensory concept as the aroma that rises when rain falls on thirsty stone. Turns out there is even a word for this phenomenon—petrichor—coined by two Australian researchers in 1964. The source of the smell, they determined, is that water liberates aromatics contained in complex, multi-compound oils that are given off by vegetation during dry spells and find their way onto the soil. (I happened across the term on Robin Garr's Wine Lovers Page; for more information, go to worldwidewords.org.) In other words, the smell of rain on stone is the smell of plants.

Assuming we could all agree on a definition of minerality in wine, we would still need to figure out how it is produced. What Master of Wine and popular wine-science writer Jamie Goode calls the "literalist" school holds that minerality comes more or less directly from the vineyard soils: slate in the vineyard produces slatey-type mineral character in the bottle. The implicit mechanism is that little molecules of slate journey from the soil through the roots and the xylem into the berries, and somehow manage not to fall out during fermentation. This, alas, is not how grapevine physiology works.

Even though chunks of slate (or clay or sandy loam) don't make their way into the grapes, some elementary minerals and mineral compounds do get taken up from the ground and end up in the juice. They arrive in small quantities, not enough to independently influence flavor, one way or another. They do, however, play an important role in yeast nutrition and metabolism during fermentation. And they are not particularly glamorous minerals, not the stuff of lyrical tasting notes: potassium, magnesium, sodium and calcium are the major players, none of them with noteworthy aromatic properties, particulary in such low concentrations. Wine flavors and aromas overwhelmingly come from compounds created either inside the berries during maturation or in the cellar during processing, not from substances transported from the soil.

The leading candidate in ongoing research for an explanation of minerality is, in fact, part of the mineral kingdom, one of the few downright famous for its odor: sulfur. In his recent book, The Science of Wine (University of California Press, 2005), Jamie Goode pulls together the findings and hypotheses from a number of European researchers suggesting that what is called minerality is likely related to low levels of a number of sulfur-based compounds, especially likely to occur in reductive (highly oxygen-restricted) winemaking or under conditions of nutrient stress in yeast during fermentation.

Another line of explanation links the perception of minerality with high acidity. Besides thinking minerality has little to do with "sucking on stones," Ann Noble suspects acidity may be involved: "I personally think it (minerality) implies 'austere.' Flavor with 'tight fruit,' high acid. Temporally, the aroma and taste are sharp, quick in onset and do not linger."

It seems hardly coincidental that Germany, known for high acid wines, reductive winemaking and chronic nutrient deficiencies in wine musts, should also be the source of so many wines identified by those who love them as highly mineral.

Without an agreed-upon standard, theories about where minerality comes from are bound to remain speculative. But the possibility that minerality stems not from the fixed characteristics of the vineyard but from compounds that can be controlled in the cellar should be cause for optimism. If emanations of slate can only be derived from slate soils, most of the winegrowing world is out of luck. But if this desirable property is due to the level of acidity or the presence of one or another sulfur compound that can be encouraged or discouraged, so much the better. The prospect: less romance, more minerality.

quelle: www.winebusiness.com

[Kommentare (0) | Kommentar erstellen | Permalink]

Dienstag, 12. Dezember 2006

Phylloxera threatens 70% of Australia's Yarra Valley
Von wein-sigihiss, 11:45

December 11, 2006
Felicity Carter

A newly-discovered outbreak of the vine-killing bug phylloxera is threatening over 70% of Australia's Yarra Valley vines.

The insect, which attaches itself to vine roots and eventually cuts off nutrients to the plant, was discovered a week ago in a Foster's-owned 32ha vineyard in the Coldstream area.

The infected vineyard is now under quarantine.

Less than 30% of the Yarra Valley, one of Australia's most prestigious wine regions and home to around 100 wineries, is planted on disease-resistant rootstock, making it particularly vulnerable.

Phylloxera will spread with great speed if left unchecked, but is very difficult to detect early on. A vine can suffer for two years before any symptoms are visible.

'We've got a removal and destruction plan ready to go,' said Foster's spokesman Troy Hey. 'It's just waiting on the Department of Primary Industries to go ahead.'

The department is investigating the outbreak, asking growers within the area about their viticultural practices.

'We will be declaring a control area around the infested vineyard with an approximate five kilometre radius,' said Andrew Evans, the department's principal officer for biosecurity.

Evans said it would take several months to find out whether the pest has spread and vineyards within the control area will not be able to move plant material or machinery out of the area.

The discovery is a further blow for the region, which lost an estimated 40% of its grape production to severe October frosts.

Michael Matthews, Chairman of the Victorian Wine Industry Association, said the Department of Primary Industry needs to do more to stop the phylloxera from spreading.

'There's a protocol where the DPI is supposed to go through all the wine regions and declare them free of phylloxera,' he said. 'Only half of this has been done.'
quelle: www.decanter.com

[Kommentare (0) | Kommentar erstellen | Permalink]

Montag, 11. Dezember 2006

Der degustierte Flaschenhals
Von wein-sigihiss, 11:09

Was aus der Flasche ausläuft, muss nicht immer schlecht sein.

Von Sigi Hiss

Ein Weinpaket aus England, eine Flasche Sauternes aus 1896, das Ausgelaufene aus dieser alten Flasche und warum dies Flasche nicht zurück an den Absender ging.

Die Bestellung der Weine bei dieser sehr seriösen Weinhandelsfirma aus London klappte, wie immer, am Schnürchen. Man kennt sich und man vertraut sich gegenseitig. Diesmal war eine 1896er Sigalas-Rabaud mit im Paket. Der Preis war in Ordnung, das Niveau very very low shoulder und das Etikett eines von Christies mit den nötigen Informationen. Der Wein war nicht zum Wiederverkauf, sondern dazu bestimmt meinen Gaumen zu erfreuen.

Aus unerfindlichen Gründen wurde das Paket an die falsche Adresse geliefert – ein Freund bekam das Paket. Sein Anruf versetzte mich erst einmal in eine Art Schockzustand. Nicht weil er das Paket bekam, sondern weil er mitteilte, dass der 1896er ausgelaufen war. Das vorher schon nicht sehr gute Niveau sank nun auf ein Level namens very below low shoulder – höchste Alarmstufe also. Meine Lähmung hatte sich wieder gelegt, da dachte ich, London informieren - Houston wir haben ein Problem - und die Flasche zurücksenden. London meldet entschuldigend, klar wir nehmen die Flasche zurück. Nachgedacht, für gut befunden und Thema ad Acta gelegt. Mein Freund sollte die Flaschen demnächst bei mir vorbei bringen. Exakt einen Tag bevor wir uns treffen wollten bekam ich eine Email von ihm mit folgendem Inhalt:

“...also du bist ja der Käufer, aber ich hab das Ausgelaufene am Flaschenhals und am Verpackungspapier „degustiert“ und das schmeckt vorzüglich. Da sehr viel ausgelaufen ist, ging das sehr gut. Hmmm das war wirklich gut, wollen wir zusammen die Flasche nicht trotzdem trinken?“.

Man könne ja die Notizen beider Weine – der ausgelaufene und der nicht ausgelaufene Teil - miteinander vergleichen, erwiderte ich mit dem Hintergrund, ihn auf die Schippe zu nehmen. Probiert haben wir den Wein und die Notizen des nicht ausgelaufenen Teiles hier aufgeschrieben. Wie froh war ich, dass die Flasche nicht nach London zurück ging, denn sonst hätte ich niemals geglaubt dass ein ausgelaufener Teil eines Wein besser sein könnte als der nicht ausgelaufene. Die Notizen des Ausgelaufenen sind im Bermudadreieck der mythischen Weine verschollen, so basieren die besonderen Qualitäten leider nur auf mündlichen Überlieferungen.

1896 Sigalas-Rabaud

below low shoulder: brauner farbton der nichts gutes verheisst, mit grünlichen reflexen was auf einen starken oxidativen einfluss hindeutet, muffig, feuchter keller, madeira-note, viel flüchtige säure, talkum, bitteres malz, wird etwas besser an der luft. am gaumen gute balance, noch gute süsse & deutliche säure, bitter, leicht muffig, rübenzucker, oxidation bemerkbar, mittlerer abgang der leicht dumpf ist. enttäuschend aber ok.

[Kommentare (0) | Kommentar erstellen | Permalink]

Sonntag, 10. Dezember 2006

drinking history - dt. ausgabe bei uns erhältlich
Von wein-sigihiss, 08:29

in der pdf-datei ist eine sehr grosszügige beschreibung des buches. unter dem word-file sind noch zusätzliche informationen. bestellen kann man das buch bei uns. viel spass damit !

herzliche grüsse sigi

Angehängte Dateien:

	drinkinghistoryauszge_ds.pdf (3660 kb)
	pi_drinkinghistoryhiss.doc (31 kb)

[Kommentare (0) | Kommentar erstellen | Permalink]

Samstag, 09. Dezember 2006

1990 clos des mouches - j. drouhin
Von wein-sigihiss, 19:14

2 std. vorher dekantiert. angebliche 13% vol. - dürfte deutlich mehr sein.

sehr schöne rote kirschige note mit würzigem touch, kirschkerne, mit luft kommt eine dunkele schokonote dazu, sehr klar wirkend, touch erdig. am gaumen knochentrockener & mineralischer stil, wuchtig, alkohol leicht spürbar, rauhes aber hintergründiges tannin, frische säure, wieder rote kirsche, zusätzlich amarenakirsche, nasser waldboden, kein schmeichler, der alkohol dringt etwas in den vordergrund, nicht die geringste zeichen von reife, ansonsten ein sehr rassiger & klasischer burgunder beaune. kommt evtl. besser am 2. tag.

2. tag: weicher & geschmeidiger, das alkoholische verliert sich etwas & der abgang verliert das wuchtige, ein toller wein, obgleich ihm das gewisse etwas fehlt zum wirklich grossen wein.

[Kommentare (0) | Kommentar erstellen | Permalink]

Mittwoch, 06. Dezember 2006

2006 Barrel and Oak Report Preview
Von wein-sigihiss, 16:08

Use of alternatives continues to increase, not only as a means of cost-cutting but also as a new tool for producing quality wine.

From Daily News Links, 12/06/2006

The North American wine industry, facing an increasingly competitive international market, continues to seek a balance between quality derived from traditional winemaking practices and getting wines to market quickly and cost-effectively.

Results from the 2006 Wine Business Monthly Barrel and Oak Survey show that wineries overall are decreasing their use of barrels and are increasing their use of alternatives, including micro-oxygenation. In previous years, the decline of wine aged in barrels was driven by mid-size wineries; however, the 2006 Survey shows that both small and mid-size wineries are aging a smaller percentage of their production in oak barrels.

The declining use of barrels to age wine at mid-size wineries has been remarkable. In 2003, mid-size wineries were behaving very much like small wineries, aging just over 75 percent of their wine in barrels (see CHART 1). Over the past three years the percentage of wine aged in oak barrels has dropped to just over 50 percent. Mid-size wineries are now behaving very much like large wineries.

The shift away from barrel aging is occurring more frequently with white wines, but red wines, especially at mid-size wineries, are also making a shift away from barrel aging as alternatives gain popularity.

The survey also indicates that small wineries, in particular, are significantly stepping up their use of barrel alternatives. Wineries' views of alternatives are shifting: Alternatives are no longer viewed as a means for cost cutting but also as another tool for producing quality wine. This is borne out by the fact that wineries are starting to use alternatives at higher price points, in some cases in wines that retail for above $25. In addition, mid-size wineries are continuing to increase their adoption of alternatives and, in many respects, are beginning to resemble large wineries, which have been aggressively using oak alternatives for some time.

This year's survey reflects the many changing attitudes about barrels and alternative usage. While pricing and the euro exchange have certainly impacted wineries of all sizes, the developing trends show a willingness to adapt and make necessary changes in order to stay competitive. While it may be true that some of their hands were probably forced, the number of wineries making and building upon those changes continues to grow.

Purists may argue for and maintain traditions, however, as technology improves and winemakers learn more about how to make better wine, the alternatives and micro-ox technology merely play into this strategy. And as more winemakers begin to willingly make adjustments, we can expect more creative uses and combinations of techniques in the future.
quelle: www.winebusiness.com

[Kommentare (0) | Kommentar erstellen | Permalink]

Dienstag, 05. Dezember 2006

1964 montrose
Von wein-sigihiss, 20:41

top shoulder, chateau abfüllung,

erste nase - fast nichts - erster schluck säure......zweiter schluck....kork. aber man erahnt den grossen wein dahinter. es war aber auch meine letzte flasche.sch ade.

[Kommentare (0) | Kommentar erstellen | Permalink]

Kostenloses Blog bei Beeplog.de

Die auf Weblogs sichtbaren Daten und Inhalte stammen von
Privatpersonen. Beepworld ist hierfür nicht verantwortlich.