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Mittwoch, 31. Januar 2007
Cru-Bourgeois-Klassifikation vor der Aufhebung
Ein französisches Gericht wird in Kürze über die 2003 erstellte neue Cru-Bourgeois-Klassifikation entscheiden. Dem Antrag des zuständigen Staatskommissars auf Nichtigerklärung dürfte die Kammer vermutlich folgen.
Die Weichen für die Entscheidung sind gestellt, nachdem der Staatskommissar beantragt hat, die Klassifikation aufzuheben. Das Gericht hat nun noch knapp drei Wochen Zeit, dem nachzukommen oder aber die Gültigkeit der Einstufung zu bestätigen. Die Klassifikation der Cru-Bourgeois-Weingüter war von Anfang an heftig umstritten, vor allem wegen der Auswahlkriterien und der Zusammensetzung der Jury. Nicht berücksichtigte Erzeuger zogen vor den Kadi. Kenner der Szene vermuten, dass das Gericht mit grosser Wahrscheinlichkeit dem Antrag des Kommissars folgen wird. quelle: www.wein-plus.de
Montag, 29. Januar 2007
Sales of Wine with Screwcap Closures Surge in U.S. Market
Report Released at Unified Symposium Shows 25% Sales Growth in 2006
"The burgeoning market for innovative closures is not about direct competition with natural cork," said Poulos. "This is about diversification and convenience, creating new opportunities for the enjoyment of wine as an everyday beverage, and expanding the market. In the immediate future, we see traditional packaging continuing to thrive, with screwcaps and other innovative closures seeing widespread consumer acceptance. This is a very healthy market dynamic." The findings were presented at the Unified Wine & Grape Symposium, the largest wine and grape tradeshow in the nation, held annually at the Sacramento Convention Center in Northern California. quelle: http://www.winesandvines.com/According to ACNielsen, sales of wines with screwcap closures surged 24.6% in 2006, 2.3 times faster than the total 750ml bottled wine category. ACNielsen found white wines, imports and wines priced $8 to $11.99 to be the most developed within the screwcap segment. Grossing $191.9 million in retail off-premise sales (U.S. food/drug/selected liquor markets), screwcap finished wines contributed to 4% of total 750ml table wine sales for the 52-week period ending December 16, 2006.
Samstag, 27. Januar 2007
2003 grauer burgunder "jaspis" - ziereisen
sehr offene & weit ausladende nase, deutliche holzwürze, marzipan, frischer grüner spargel, zitronenschale, dicht & konzentriert, viognier touch, kalkig. am gaumen noch sehr kompakt, viel kraft, reife aber deutliche säure, tabak, auch etwas viognier aromatik, grüne banane, sehr mineralisch, knochentrocken, noch wild am gaumen, wirkt noch deutlich zu jung, unbedingt karaffe....grosse gläaser......13-15°C und/oder noch 2-3 jahre warten. hervorragend bis gross, sicher bis 2012.
Donnerstag, 25. Januar 2007
1980 richebourg - gros frere et soeur
1 std. vorher dekantiert, eine unglaubliche süsse nase nach erdbeermarmelade (frisch aufgemachtes glas) & auch frischen erdbeeren, vermengt mit zigarrenrauch & etwas cassis, ganz klar & reintönig, leichte tabakwürze. am gaumen volle kraft, kein schmeichler, kraftvolle säure, hohe mineralische komponente, sehr dezente tannine, wieder diese unglaubliche erdbeeraromatik, wuchtig mit leicht spürbarem alkohol, die säure wird dem wein wohl in 5-6 jahren sorgen bereiten, auf einen 27 jahre alten burgunder aus einem mittelmässigen jahrgang kommt man blind nicht, 2 std. ach dem dekantieren verschliesst sich der wein....tannine kommen rauher hervor....frucht verschwindet etwas..... 2. tag: alles wirkt jetzt reifer...dunkler...mit nugat & waldboden, das rauchige & würzige bleibt. am gaumen ist der wein nun wieder offen, mit mürben tanninen, satter mineralik, wucht, sehr tabakige...nussige....etwas trüfflige noten, das erbeerige ist deutlich im hintergund, rundere säure, langer ausladender abgang. ein hauch von oxidativer note kommt hinzu.
Freitag, 19. Januar 2007
the perfect burgundy
enjoy the story of the perfect burgundy. here the german version: http://sigihiss.beeplog.de/19384_252657.htm sigi hiss
Der perfekte Burgunder
der artikel als word dokument. hier die englische version: http://sigihiss.beeplog.de/19384_252698.htm viel spass sigi hiss
Donnerstag, 18. Januar 2007
1978 lagrange
into neck, sehr offene & tiefe nase, zedernholz, holunderblüten, etwas moos, frischer schwarztee, ätherische note, weisser pfeffer, touch muskat, reife walnuss, mit luft kommt schwarze johannisbeere & rote kirsche dazu. am gaumen feinsandige tannine, klare säure, ausladend aber kein schmeichler, stil charakter mit ein paar kanten & ecken, trockene mineralik, moos, astwerk, wieder zedernholz, dezente rote früchte im hintergrund, langer robuster abgang. toller wein. mit ein guter portion medoc versehen. sicher noch 5-8 jahre. 2 std.: deutlich mehr cassis, tannin ist samtiger, wein wird geschmeidiger...tiefer. klasse. 2. tag: verliert, säure kommt durch & zeiht sich bis in den abgang. immer noch ein guter bdx aber nicht mehr die klasse vom vortag.
1987 rabaja - g.cortese
8290 produzierte flaschen, braucht viel luft, anfangs nahezu tot - dann kommt etwas teer, lakritze, verbrannter gummi, nicht sehr tief. am gaumen deutliches tannin - leicht sperrig, mit substanz im hintergrund, wuchtige art, mittlerer abgang....abwarten wie sich der wein mit luft darstellt 2. tag: viel offener, erdig, tannin wirkt mürber, immer noch leicht alkoholische art, leder, teer, lakritze, keine anzeichen von schwäche, sicher weitere 5-6 jahre, tolles weinerlebnis.
Bordeaux second growth puts wine under screwcap
January 19, 2007 AOliver Styles
An in-depth look at the pros and cons of wine development under screw caps.
Is This The Closure For Your Wine?
An in-depth look at the pros and cons of wine development under screw caps.
By Paul Tudor
From Wine Business Monthly, 07/15/2005
The screw cap revival owes much to the wineries of the Clare Valley in Australia, who, as a group, bottled their vintage 2000 Rieslings under screw cap. However, it is in New Zealand that screw caps have really found their home. In less than four years, the screw cap has become the standard closure for bottled New Zealand wines. The New Zealand Screwcap Wine Seal Initiative, formed in May 2001, has 51 wine company members. However, many more of New Zealand's 500 wine producers are using screw caps for some or all of their production. One of New Zealand's biggest contract bottlers, the Marlborough Bottling Company, reports that over 80 percent of its output last year was under screw cap. In one month, October 2004, Marlborough's screw cap rate topped 93 percent. Other contract bottlers around the country report similar rates. Villa Maria, New Zealand's third largest producer, with an annual crush of over 8,000 tons, has committed to 100 percent screw cap, for both domestic and export markets. Some wineries have adopted caps for lesser-priced wines and retained natural corks for premium or super premium wines. Te Mata Estate, for instance, uses screw caps for the entry level Woodthorpe range and high-grade natural corks for its flagship Coleraine, one of the country's most prestigious red wines. In the past year, the numbers have been boosted even further with New Zealand's largest wine company, Allied Domecq Wines New Zealand, employing screw caps for standard production lines, not just for airline bottles. Formerly Montana Wines, producers of the Brancott and Stoneleigh brands, Allied Domecq now bottles a third of all its brands under caps. The company's overall screw cap percentage is higher than this, however, as caps seal some of its highest volume lines, such as the Montana Classics range. A few high profile producers, notably Dry River and Stonecroft, have stuck with natural cork for their total production. Nevertheless, pundits claim that around 70 percent of all bottled New Zealand wine is now under screw cap. The issue has received regular attention from the mass media. Screw caps have captured the attention of the New Zealand public, from high-involvement wine aficionados to everyday drinkers who often buy what is on special at their local supermarket. And, increasingly, these people are choosing screw-capped wines. Despite this remarkable performance, screw caps have a long way to go. There are issues relating to consumer acceptance, allegations that they are causing reductive or sulphidic wines, and questions about their performance, especially for long-term aging. Technical standards are still evolving. International success is not yet guaranteed. Excessive Sulphides: Fact or Fiction?Critics argue that screw caps are acceptable for short-term drinking but that corks are superior for wines intended for lengthy bottle maturation.
A Wellington-based American wine writer, Paul White, has publicized what he sees as excessive sulphide levels in wines sealed under screw cap. "The Screwcap Initiative over-promised perfection without having perfected the process and set themselves up for criticism whective potential is there, but is the character reductiveness or flintiness? Or is it something derived from the winemaking, the oak or the lees aging?" Some of the information is contradictory. For instance, the chief judges' report at the recent Air New Zealand Wine Awards expressed concerns that "too many wines were showing sulphides that were under screw cap." Yet of the 16 wines that won trophies in that competition, including the champion and runner up, all but one was under screw cap. And the exception? A bottle-fermented sparkling wine. My own regular tastings have not revealed anything like the problems alleged by Paul White and his panel of "professionally qualified" judges. And, in a couple of instances, the tastings have been remarkably similar in subject matter. However, as Australian author Tyson Stelzer noted, "Many people remain unconvinced. And a perceived problem is still a problem." Research is starting to provide some answers. Peter Godden, industry services winemaker-manager at the Australian Wine Research Institute (AWRI), presented ongoing data from the institute's "Wine Bottle Closure Trial" at the first International Screwcap Symposium, hosted by the New Zealand Screwcap Wine Seal Initiative in Marlborough last November. This trial commenced in 1999, with the first results published in June 2001. It was this paper that first raised the alarm regarding "reduced" aromas in screw-capped wines. Godden also spoke of other work that the AWRI has been conducting, including a commercial closure trial funded by manufacturers, which commenced in 2002. Initial results from this trial, first published in August 2004, do suggest that screw caps have a slightly higher occurrence of reduced aromas or "struck flint" character as the AWRI refers to sulphide aromatics. The AWRI now has an overriding project called "Wine and Oxygen," led by Dr. Elizabeth Waters. In one experiment conducted by Waters' team, a reference wine was bottled under cork, under screw cap and in glass ampoules sealed with airtight stoppers. The ampoules showed a much higher incidence of "struck flint" or "rubber" characters than the screw cap version, which was in turn higher than the standard cork version. Godden is particularly concerned that the AWRI's own information is being used incorrectly. "There may be problems," he said, "but we need to deal with them in an open and objective way. The closures do not cause reductive characters to form. Indeed, there have always been reductive wines; it is basically a winemaking issue." In contrast to the above examples, Godden mentioned a recent AWRI Advanced Wine Assessment course. The AWRI runs these courses for the Australian wine industry, and students are asked to rate wines for certain characters. At the September 2004 course, attendees rated a higher proportion of reductive wines under natural cork than under screw cap. Godden would also like to dispel one myth: "Oxygen does get into screw caps. Not much, but it does." The rate of permeability is low but remarkably consistent as AWRI data shows (see Table below).
Some technical corks, made from cork crumbs held together with glue, also maintain a consistent rate of oxygen ingress. Altec, one of the best-known brands, performed well in this regard. Natural corks, on the other hand, display a wide range of oxygen permeability. Nevertheless, the very best corks are more initial dip, however, the SO2 decline evened out to a constant rate (Charts 1 and 2).
A similar pattern was found with screw-capped wines, albeit that average DO levels were initially much lower and hence sulphur levels started out from a higher base. Overall, screw caps resulted in higher levels of total and free SO2 retention, though the long-term rate of SO2 decline was about the same as natural corks. Brajkovich surmises that natural corks provide an initial hit of oxygen at bottling, thanks either to the "pistoning" effect of the cork entering the bottle neck or because the compression of the corker jaws squeezes air out of the cork into the bottle headspace. This explains why wines sealed with natural corks generally show higher levels of dissolved oxygen (and lower sulphur dioxide) than screw-capped wines from an earlier stage. However, once that initial bottle shock period is overcome, in the long term, good corks provide as good a seal as screw caps and have similar rates of permeability. A recent paper published by the Australian Closure Fund supports these conclusions. Clare Valley producer Jeffrey Grosset established the Australian Closure Fund to sponsor research into wine closures. The fund's first project was based on in-house trials conducted by Southcorp research winemaker Allen Hart, with support from the AWRI. The wines in the trial were Seppelts Great Western Sparkling Shiraz, which had been stored on lees for some years under crown seals, and Penfolds Bin 389. Bin 389, a red table wine, was sealed under ROTE screw cap, natural cork and two types of synthetic corks. The Bin 389 was aged in bottles for up to six and a half years and evaluated at regular intervals (Charts 3 and 4).
Hart's analyses of dissolved oxygen and sulphur levels in various Bin 389 samples provide uncannily similar results to the Screwcap Initiative trials. The figures show extreme variability between bottles sealed with cork, with some bottles showing high levels of additional oxygen and others relatively little. Hart suggests that this variability is the ultimate cause of "random oxidation." However, the oxygen permeability of screw caps was very consistent from sample to sample. The principal conclusion of Hart's paper, which backs up research first published by French academic Jean Ribereau-Gayon in 1931, is that oxygen is not a vital component for the aging and development of bottled wine. Randall Grahm, who has been a major supporter of screw caps at Bonny Doon Vineyards in Santa Cruz, California, believes that claims of reduction problems are total rubbish. "Reduction always is and always was a winemaking issue." He points out that certain Italian wines, such as Dolcetto, are highly reductive when bottled under cork. "It is the winemaker's job to determine that the wine's reductive potential has been sufficiently diminished before bottling," said Grahm. "This is easily done by doing a test bottling some time in advance of the actual bottling. We have observed no problems so far, but that is not to say there might not come a wine that will surprise us. But my sense is that for any competent winemaker this is no biggie." Grahm also dismisses claims that wines age better under corks than with screw caps. “and bottling as it relates to screw caps. The book was published with the backing of both the New Zealand Screw Cap Initiative and the Australian Wine Closure Fund. A major concern is that substandard wines, including poorly made, reductive wines, may give screw caps a bad name. "It is not enough for the screw cap to be superior," said Stelzer. "It must also be perceived as being superior by the average consumer. Consumers must be convinced that screw caps give them a tangible advantage over corks." He harks back to 1984 when screw caps were last launched on a widespread basis in Australia. The wines that were bottled under screw cap back then were low-priced white wines and wines served in economy class on airlines, helping to create an image of a cheap closure. "There is no statement that we can make that speaks louder than the message sent by committing our best wines to screw cap first," said Stelzer. "And it makes so much sense. If there is any wine that is deserving of a closure that maintains fruit definition, surely it is the wine that is made from the very best fruit. If there is any bottle that demands an airtight seal, surely it is the bottle destined for a long life in the cellar. And if there is any sector of the market that understands the advantages of screw caps, is it not the same sector that is prepared to pay a little more to purchase a premium wine?" The Marketing DilemmaOne who is concerned about wines aged on lees, in a reductive environment, is New Zealand Chardonnay specialist John Hancock, winemaker and part owner of Trinity Hill. At this stage, his premium wines, including his Gimblett Chardonnay, are still under cork.
Hancock would like to dispel any rumors that he has moved away from screw caps. "I don't have concerns about screw caps; however, we just don't know at this stage. Our wines are slow evolving, and we don't want to make a rapid decision. We are flexible." Hancock points out that 50 percent of Trinity Hill's production is under screw cap, including all their aromatic white wines. "We are certainly not against using screw caps, but they could be another impediment for people not to buy those top-end wines from us." John Thorogood, from UK wine merchants Lay & Wheeler, agrees with Stelzer that producers should put their best, rather than the least expensive, wines under screw cap. He labels the wine bottled under caps in the 1970s as "pretty dire." "We need a positive quality statement," he said. In short time screw caps have come from nowhere in the UK to be commercially significant. And, as Thorogood observes, three or four years is a very, very short time in the wine industry. Lay & Wheeler's own records put the figures for corked wines at around six percent, with wines that are "cork affected" much higher still. Lay & Wheeler have conducted consumer surveys, in both the off-trade and the on-trade, on various aspects of wine consumption. In their most recent survey, several questions about screw caps were posed. When asked whether they would consider purchasing a white wine under screw cap, 81 percent of respondents said that they would whereas only 65 percent would consider a red under screw cap. In a restaurant situation, 70 percent might buy a white under screw cap while only 60 percent might go for a screw-capped red. However, if a sommelier discussed the issue of screw caps with them, less than 10 percent said "No." "We need to create more information for retailers and consumers," said Thorogood. "And we have a responsibility to the consumers that our wines get to them in the b have to work with revised memories for wines in such closures. Laroche has researched the closure field for several years after toting up the numbers on wines that were corked or had other problems and becoming dissatisfied with corkage losses of approximately 5 percent. He has been asked to discuss his tests and complaints by officials of major Portuguese cork-producing associations. His feelings about such losses proved out at the tasting. Of the 56 bottles opened by sommelier Andre Compeyre of Restaurant Alain Ducasse, one was tainted and a second was discarded as questionable. In addition to Laroche, Bordeaux's Andre Lurton is bottling three of his Bordeaux Blanc whites from the 2003 vintage in screw caps. The wines are Château Couhins-Lurton (Cru classé de Graves), Château La Louvière (Pessac-Léognan) and Château Bonnet (Entre-Deux-Mers). wbm —Mort Hochstein "The good news is that Americans are unusually open, pragmatic, unfussy and not nostalgic. They are not wedded to cork for any reasons of history, tradition, economics or geographic self-interest. Americans are not sentimental about cork; young drinkers have no association of screw caps with Skid Row wine."
Franz feels that it is possible to push the screw cap message too hard in the United States and that there is still the need to educate. The small population of wine drinkers makes for an easy target. However, having an alternative closure introduces "more complexity." And Franz believes that screw caps will be challenged by both synthetic closures and "higher end bag-in-the-box wines." "Universal acceptance at the retail level is not yet a fact, and there has also been reluctance from restaurants to stock screw-capped wines," said Franz. "However, once Americans are convinced that caps are acceptable for any wine, then they are going to demand that all wine be under screw caps." Chuck Hayward from The Jug Shop in San Francisco believes that one of the problems in America is that the wine media did not support the move to screw caps as strongly as they did in other countries. He is marginally more optimistic about the screw cap's prospects in the U.S. and notes that the technology has gone through three distinct phases: the novelty phase, the resistance phase and is just now entering the acceptance phase. "The biggest resistance to screw caps came from the restaurant side of the industry. At the more formal, white tablecloth restaurants, sommeliers were concerned about the appearance of screw cap bottles on the table as well as opening the wine in accordance with accepted procedures from the Court of Master Sommeliers. So it was left to the retail segment of the market to introduce the new closure to the public." Chuck Hayward also believes that consumer acceptance is riding high in the U.S. "It is at the trade level where the need for education is most critical. That is because the trade is listening closely to the success stories as well as the problems that are arising with screw caps. We can expect to hear much conflicting and confusing information over the next few years." Hayward is especially critical of larger American wineries holding back, with a wait-and-see attitude. "Unfortunately, our country lacks a screw cap consortium to educate the trade and the press about the need for new closures. There is a danger in America that screw caps will be marginalized as 'something crazy Kiwi and Aussie wineries invented.' Larger American wineries can wait for the furor of bad points due to cork taint, as well as debates regardinrs at bottling, can also have a huge influence on how wine develops in bottle. "Understanding how to manipulate all of these bottling variables to optimize how wine flavor and aroma develops is the future, and it is extremely exciting. "In this context, closures will be considered as part of the winemaking process, as the changes in a wine that can be induced by the closure are profound, and in many cases of far greater magnitude than many vineyard or winemaking variables. One thing that flows from this acceptance is that one will need closures that are manufactured to ever-tighter specifications in order to predict and reproduce performance," said Godden. Godden notes that there are already screw cap liners with different levels of air permeability on the market. He predicts an even greater array of "designer closures." "There is likely to be an ever-increasing number of widely accepted alternatives. TCA-free technical corks will certainly be a major part of the closure mix for a long time. Into the future, TCA will not be the cork industry's biggest challenge." Nevertheless, there is a growing body of evidence that bottled wine does not need oxygen in order to age properly. And as screw caps are used on an ever-increasing range of wine styles and varieties, knowledge is being accumulated on how to prepare wine for bottling and how to carry out bottling successfully. If there are ongoing problems with sulphides or reductive characters, solutions may be at hand, with emerging technologies such as micro-oxygenation and lees fining. Or perhaps, as Alastair Maling MW has suggested, winemakers need to go back to basics and handle their fruit, their ferments and their maturing wine properly to begin with. wbm
Allen Hart and Andrew Kleinig "The role of oxygen in the aging of bottled wine," Australian Closure Fund research paper, 1 February 2005 Michael Brajkovich MW "Bottle maturation," International Screwcap Symposium, Blenheim, New Zealand, November 2004 Peter Godden et al. "Results of the AWRI trial of the technical performance of various wine bottle closures up to 63 months post bottling, and an examination of factors related to 'reductive' aroma in bottled wine," International Screwcap Symposium, Blenheim, New Zealand, November 2004 References:The current surge in screw cap use is nothing short of a revolution in wine packaging. It is the most significant technical evolution that the wine industry has faced since the glass bottle was introduced 250 years ago. But it is also one of the most controversial.Paul Tudor Based in Auckland, New Zealand, Paul Tudor is an independent wine critic and consultant who has been writing about wine for over 12 years. Currently studying for the Master of Wine examinations, he has had an interest in the closure debate since the launch of the New Zealand Screwcap Wine Seal Initiative in August 2001.
quelle:http://www.winebusiness.com/
Mittwoch, 17. Januar 2007
In defence of screwcaps - wineanaorak
Responding to recent news pieces on screwcap taint Jamie Goode, 19th January 2007 The last few days have seen a number of reports in the national press about wine ‘faults’ caused by screwcaps, not only in the UK (Times, Daily Mail, Daily Telegraph, BBC News Site), but also in New Zealand and Australia. I feel strongly that there is a need to address these reports because, in my opinion, they represent the science of closures badly, are filled with inaccuracies and misunderstandings, and do not serve the wine industry well: they have the potential for misleading consumers about an important issue. The reports are centred on the results from the faults clinic at the International Wine Challenge. It is puzzling that this story should suddenly be deemed ‘news’: the results were actually released last September (see here), and were given some press coverage then. Significantly, the pieces fail to recognize that screwcaps with liners allowing different oxygen transmission rates exist, and that winemakers can work with their wines to bring them to a point at bottling where reduction is much less likely, even if they use the tin-lined screwcaps that are currently the most popular sort and which allow very little oxygen transmission. Also, when reduction does occur, it is not the same as cork taint, which irredeemably ruins a wine, but is rather a more subtle effect that almost all consumers would fail to spot. I’ll address the specific points raised in two of the news pieces below. “In contrast to traditional corks, the caps stop the wines breathing, leaving them at risk of the chemical process of sulphidisation.” Daily Mail The term ‘sulphidisation’ is meaningless here. And the term ‘breathing’ is misleading: the normal level of oxygen transmission by a cork is tiny, albeit significant. ‘Breathing’ suggests that air can diffuse/permeate freely through the cork: this would result in oxidation “When the top is taken off, wine lovers are confronted with the reek of sulphur—likened to burning rubber or rotten eggs—rather than an attractive bouquet.” Daily Mail The problem with screwcap reduction, when it occurs, is the presence of disulfides and thiols (this is another name for mercaptans). Typical descriptors for these are ‘burnt match’, ‘struck flint’, ‘rubber’ – not rotten eggs (see the table below). The latter is a descriptor for hydrogen sulphide. Hydrogen sulphide is caused by reduction: a lack of oxygen in fermentation, or an absence of other nitrogen sources means that yeasts use the amino acid cysteine as a nitrogen source, producing hydrogen sulphide. Hydrogen sulphide is then reduced to disulfides, which in turn can be reduced to mercaptans. In the reduced environment of a wine sealed by screwcap you’d be unlikely to see eggy hydrogen sulphide, unless the winemaker was negligent to bottle an already reduced wine this way. “Many producers switched to screw caps about five years ago because of increasing concerns over cork. It can be affected by a mould - trichloroanisol - leaving as many as 4.4 per cent of wine bottles with an unpleasant smell and taste.” Daily Mail 2,4,6-trichloroanisole is not a mould. It’s a compound produced by microbes that live in the lenticels of cork bark. “The problem with the screw caps was identified at the annual International Wine Challenge (IWC) event at which tens of thousands of wines from all over the world are examined. A test of 9,000 bottles found 2.2 per cent suffered from sulphidisation and other problems linked to the wine not being able to absorb oxygen, or ‘breathe’.” Daily Mail “Tests last autumn on 9,000 screwcap wines by the International Wine Challenge found that 2.2 per cent of bottles were affected by sulphidisation because the contents were not allowed to breathe.” The Times No, there were 10 000 bottles opened overall, and of these, 2.2% of those sealed with screwcaps (a much smaller number) were found to have sulfide issues. This was sensory analysis only. No bottles were subjected to chemical testing. The dreaded ‘sulphidisation’ term was not used anywhere. ‘In a number of cases the IWC chairmen validated a link between screw cap use and a unfavourable vegetal/rubber flavoured compound—presumed to be a complexed sulfide’, reported Sam Harrop, who headed up the IWC faults clinic, when I quizzed him on this. ‘At first glance a percentage of 4.9% of total faults may not seem high, but when examined in the context of total screw cap figures, a more worrying rate of 2.2% [of all screwcapped wines] emerges. In the context of the 2006 IWC cork taint figure of 2.8% [of all natural cork-sealed wines], this fault type is significant and should be given more attention by wineries using screwcap.’ However, Harrop was keen to emphasize that he wasn’t equating the two, as some of the newspaper reports did: ‘While the IWC figures for screwcaps are a concern, there is no question in my mind that the continued incidence of cork taint is still a more serious issue.’ “When naturally occurring sulphides degrade in wine, they produce the compound thiol, which gives sulphur its smell.” Daily Mail Wrong. “Wine expert Martin Isark said consumers find it much easier to identify the sulphidisation caused by screw caps than problems with cork. Consequently, they are more likely to return these bottles to stores. ‘The everyday wine shopper would have no problem identifying a wine smelling like a stink bomb,’ he said.” Daily Mail “They thought that the problem of corked wine had been solved by introducing the screwtop. But now red wine producers are grappling with an even worse issue: the whiff of rotten eggs.” The Times “Leading wine stores and supermarkets have been told to expect returns from unhappy customers.” The Times No. This is wrong, in my opinion. He’s confusing hydrogen sulfide with the other sulfur compounds. I’ve tasted a number of wines with what I suspect to be screwcap reduction, and it’s not as noticeable as cork taint. I doubt any consumers will spot it unless they are coached. Certainly, the 2.2% of screwcapped wines picked out at the IWC weren’t suffering from eggy/drainage hydrogen sulphide smells. “Screw caps have tight-fitting seals which prevent the air from getting in. Some wineries are working on designs with more room around the head of the bottle to allow air in.” Daily Mail “Screwcaps have tight-fitting seals which prevent air from getting in. Some wineries are working on designs with more room around the head of the bottle to allow air in.” The Times Both quite similar sentences, which makes me think that the journalists were working from a press release sent in, or reworked the same original article. Who was the author? Anyway, it’s wrong again. The author fails to distinguish that there are different sorts of screwcap liner. Those with a tin layer in the liner (the majority) allow very little, but some, gas transmission. Those with a saranex-only (white-looking) liner allow a good deal more. Screwcap manufacturers are looking at engineering liners with intermediate gas transmission, but no one would think of allowing ‘more room around the head of the bottle’ because this would cause the wine to oxidize fast!
1978 cissac
high shoulder mit etwas luft mittlere nase, ätherisch, astwerk, zedern, weisser pfeffer, touch muskat, wirkt sehr klar & sauber, etwas röstiges. am gaumen kernig saftiger stil, typischer medoc - körniges tannin, spürbare säure, satte mineralität, veilchen, feinherber unterbau, tannenzapfen, wieder etwas moos, dezente rote reife früchte, noch potential über viele jahre. wer medoc oder st.-estephe mag & nicht auf grosse namen setzt, ist hier richtig. rustikale finesse in bester art. 2 std.: verändert sich kaum, wird etwas weicher.
Chardonnay and Sauvignon allowed in Rioja
January 16, 2007 John Radford The decision follows nearly two years of debate since the foundation of the OIPVR, which was created to oversee marketing and regulation, absorbing in the process the Consejo Regulador (CRDOCa), which remains a policing authority.
Donnerstag, 11. Januar 2007
1988 brunello di montalcino - banfi
anfangs extrem verhaltene nase, etwas reife frucht, leder, welke blüten. am gaumen wuchtige art, seidene struktur, feinsandiges tannin, etwas mineralisch, reife datteln, feine bitterkeit, sehr gut balanciert, reife aber deutliche säure die zum wein passt, keine anzeichen von schwäche, könnte aber noch offener werden, sehr langer bleibender abgang. toller brunello. 2 std.: gewinnt an fülle, finesse & seidigkeit, die säure wirkt etwas runder, den gaumen ausfüllender. ein wirklich hervorragender brunello!! hält sicher noch weitere 5 jahre.
1973 rioja reserva especial - martinez lacuesta
sehr offen, animalisch, balsamico, soja, nasse erde, extrem würzig - fleisch, etwas brühwürfel, auch flüchtrige säure. am gaumen zuerst die scharfe säüre, dahinter eine schöne balance, auch hier etwas flüchtige, eindimensional, ganz dezente tannine, etwas leder, aber die säure überdeckt alles, mittlerer scharfer abgang. 2 std.: die nase ist nun weich gekochter fenchel & sellerie pur - abstossend, die säure ist noch schlimmer.
Mittwoch, 10. Januar 2007
Willamette Valley gains another AVA
January 9, 2007 David Furer Chehalem Mountains has been given its own AVA (American Viticultural Area), making it Oregon's 15th delineated viticultural area.
Mittwoch, 03. Januar 2007
1996 blauer spätburgunder tafelwein - f. becker
eine wahnsinnig dichte & wuchtige nase, rote & schwarze johannisbeeren, dunkle kirschen, hintergründige lakritze, touch schokolade, mit luft gewinnt alles an tiefe, auch zedernholz......grüne nuss, nach ca. 1 std. ist ein gewaltiger wein im glas. am gaumen dito, saftigkeit, wucht aber mit stil, tannine im hintergund, prickelnde lebhafte säure, erdig, frische pflaumen, wieder diese rote & schwarze sehr intensive frucht, eine mächtige struktur die aber nicht fett oder überladen wirkt, extrakt im überfluss, man spürt fömlich dass der wein immer noch in seiner jugend ist - weitere 10 jahre traue ich dem wein zu. ein sehr sehr langer und dichter von cassis begleiteter abgang. wow.
Dienstag, 02. Januar 2007
1928 tour blanche
top shoulder, mittleres bernstein, braucht ca. 1 std. in der karaffe, dezente reife aprikosen, tabak, touch rosinen, noch alles sehr kompakt, wirkt etwas verhalten, dunkler honig & etwas melasse. butterscotch, touch riccola, am gaumen schöne satte balance, mittlere süsse, kompakte säure, sehr gute balance, ganz feines karamel, honig, etwas brioche & brotkrumen, auf dem punkt, hält sich auf diesem niveau sicher noch 5-8 jahre....wird sich aber nicht verbessern. toller wein für wenig geld in london eingekauft. mit joe breunig verkostet.
pommard 1984 tastevin & 1988 gevrey-chambertin
1984 pommard tastevin - rebourgeon-mure reife & offene nase, süsslich-würziges, rote reife früchte, fein, elegant, vielversprechend, brotrinde, nussig, etwas moschus. am gaumen ein reifer guter burgunder, sehr änliche aromen wie in der nase, eine gute säure, leicht rustiklae art, deutliche mineralik, mittlerer abgang, für den jahrgang sehr gut, spontan fällt mir das ein mittelintensiver hartkäse ein der passen würde, 2 std.: 1988 gevrey-chambertin domaine duroche dezente sehr rauchige nase, kühl, verbranter toast, touch schwarze johannisbeere, asche, leicht mineralisch im hintergund, am gaumen sattes noch sperriges tannin, zitronige säure die dominiert, dahinter fehlt momentan etwas die struktur & substanz, knochentrocken sogar leicht staubig wirkend, schwer zu beurteilen, austrocknender mittlerer abgang......
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