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Freitag, 27. April 2007
1985 brunello riserva - biondi santi
anfangs sehr alkoholisch wirkende nase, sehr feingliedrig, tief, komplex, trockene mineralität, etwas zedernholz, süssholz, astwerk, touch lakritze, schwarzer pfeffer, touch menthol, erdig. am gaumen samtene aber noch satte tannine, grosse balance andeutend, klare anfangs etwas störende säure, erdig, etwas trüffel, deutliche mineralität, eher wenig fruchtaromen, grosse struktur, mit noch viel kraft aber auch grosser eleganz, braucht viel luft, man hat das gefühl der wein ist noch nicht entwickelt, kein einfacher wein da er nicht ein generöser ist sondern ein karger aber stilvoller wein ist. weitere 10+ jahre. nichts für weintrinker die moderne, sehr fruchtbetonte weine wollen. ein eckpfeiler der weinwelt den mal trinken sollte!
preis der deutschen weinkritik vergeben
bitte link anwählen.
Donnerstag, 26. April 2007
j. robinson von martin wassmers weinen begeistert
jancis robinson MW hat die weine von martin wassmer aus bad krozingen im markgräflerland verkostet. die sehr hohe qualität aller weine von martin wassmer, ist nichts neues für liebhaber & kenner deutscher spätburgunder. jancis gehört nun sicher auch dazu. ;-)) der untertitel des originaltextes lautet:"Red as well as white answers to burgundy". weiss Martin Wassmer Markgräflerland Muskateller Kabinett trocken 2005 Baden 16+ Drink 2007
Martin Wassmer Chardonnay QbA trocken 200 Baden 17.5 Drink 2007-10
Martin Wassmer Schlatter Maltesergarten Weisser Burgunder Spätlese trocken 2005 Baden 15.5 Drink 2007-09
Martin Wassmer R Schlatter Maltesergarten Weisser Burgunder Spätlese trocken 2004 Baden 17- Drink 2007-08
Martin Wassmer Gewurztraminer Beerenauslese 2005 Baden 16 Drink 2008-13
rot
Martin Wassmer Schlatter Maltesergarten Spätburgunder QbA trocken 2004 Baden 17.5 Drink 2007-10
Martin Wassmer Markgräflerland Spätburgunder QbA trocken 2004 Baden 17 Drink 2008-12
Martin Wassmer Schlatter SW Spätburgunder QbA trocken 2004 Baden 17 Drink 2006-09
Martin Wassmer Schlatter SW Spätburgunder QbA trocken 2003 Baden 18 Drink 2006-10
I shall drink this tonight! 14%
Martin Wassmer GC Spätburgunder trocken 2004 Baden 16 Drink 2009-12?
Martin Wassmer GC Spätburgunder trocken 2003 Baden 16.5 Drink 2007-09
Dienstag, 24. April 2007
1997 spätburgunder spätlese tr - wg durchbach
durchbacher kochberg 1. flasche: anfangs noch eine sehr schöne nase mit röstaromen aber nach 10 min. bricht der wein zusammen - schmeckt & riecht wie von essigfäule befallenen weintrauben. fad...hohl....stahlig am gaumen, keine frucht mehr. das muss nicht sein! 2. flasche: dito, minimal besser.
Most extensive collection of Chateau Lafite
Most extensive collection of Chateau Lafite to be tested prior to sale
Sonntag, 22. April 2007
bdx 2006 - how the weather screwed it all up - jancis robinson
So, should you start budgeting for the 2006 bordeaux, the vintage just shown in embryonic state in Bordeaux’s cellars, salons and offices to the wine trade and media?
I would say that, with a handful of exceptions, this is a vintage to be bought by wine lovers only if they have an empty cellar that they are dying to fill.
Judging from some of the more visible contingents that were château-hopping last week, the Bordeaux trade seem to be hoping that this applies to many an Asian customer. They may well use a supposed demand from the east to bolster the 2006 prices they announce over the next few weeks. These are realistically expected to be somewhere between 2004 and 2003 release price levels – and well below the sky-high prices for the annus mirabilis 2005.
Most years there is a common theme to the primeurs sales pitch. This year it has been that many vintages have in the past been erroneously overshadowed by the one that preceded it: 2004 by 2003, 1996 by 1995, 1990 by 1989, 1986 by 1985, for example. We are meant to believe that by association 2006 is in danger of being overlooked because we are dazzled by the greatness of 2005. Do not fall for this.
This time last year I came back from tasting the 2005s on a high, almost unable to pick out the weak spots. This year it was a question of adjusting to 2006’s default settings – notable acidity, lightweight fruit and rasping tannins – and picking out the exceptions, of which there are certainly some, particularly in Pomerol. And some producers have made better 2006s than 2005s.
But in general, while the growing conditions and resulting wines of 2005 could hardly have been better, the 2006 season was plagued by problems. The vines had still not recovered from the drought cycle that produced 2005 although fortunately winter 2005/6 was rather wetter, as well as colder, than usual even if the water table throughout Bordeaux vineyards is still much lower than it used to be.
Budburst was a bit later than usual and there was some frost damage in April, although not serious enough to allow the Bordelais to complain about a dramatically reduced crop. (Any low production levels are more likely to be the result of fastidious selection.) From April to July rainfall was much lower than average and, from early May, the weather got hotter and hotter until July when mean temperatures were more than four degrees C above the long-term average. A serious heatwave in July lasted longer than its fatal counterpart in August 2003 which had such a exceptional impact on the 2003 vintage, raisining rather than ripening so many grapes on the vine. It looked as though Bordeaux was set for another exceptionally hot, dry summer that could produce similarly exceptional wines.
July was so hot and dry that the vines began to shut down. Vegetative growth stopped, the ripening process stalled and the vines adopted emergency heatwave measures, concentrating all their efforts on staying alive with the meagre available water in the soil. The earliest-ripening Merlot grapes started to change colour, the so-called véraison process, towards the end of July, earlier than usual.
Then, almost as the clocks chimed midnight on July 31, the weather changed completely. August was cool, cloudy and pretty miserable. Total sunshine hours for August were just 225, well below the average of 242 and overall rainfall was 22% higher than the August average, although this varied considerably throughout the region with the northern Médoc being slightly drier than average. In these very varied conditions the véraison was spun out over a much longer period than usual and many bunches included grapes of very different levels of ripeness, which may account for a certain greenness in some wines. The best châteaux however presumably found their sorting tables much more useful than for the bumptiously healthy 2005 crop.
The more humid weather brought with it the risk of rot, which intensified in September. Those who had sprayed early against rot were rewarded with healthy vines, but virtually all vignerons except the most careless worked particularly hard throughout August to trim leaves and sometimes berries to keep the bunches aerated and crop levels, already officially limited, low enough to concentrate flavour. “There were so many people amongst the rows, it looked like harvest time,” observed wine merchant Bill Blatch of Vintex about August, the month when the Bordelais used in the old days to disappear on holiday. Anyone who had thinned their crop earlier risked their grapes being scorched by the exceptional July sunshine.
By the end of August the mood of vine growers had changed from July’s euphoria to gloom. Would the grapes be healthy and ripe enough to produce even a halfway decent vintage? Spirits lifted somewhat in early September, another new month which saw the weather change neatly and completely. The first 10 days were dry and increasingly hot so sugar levels began to build up nicely, even if many grape skins had been left in a vulnerable state after the damp, cool weather of August and rot was already to be found in the less cosseted vineyards.
The dry whites, the single most successful category of 2006 bordeaux, were generally picked now, their crispness and aromas nicely preserved by the cool August. Some of these wines, admittedly not the most fashionable category, are stunning.
But then rain, sometimes heavy, fell virtually every day from September 11 to 18, and on both 21 and 24 – different intensities in different districts but generally picking had to stop and growers had to cross their fingers that rot and mildew would be kept at bay – not least because the nights were often warm and damp too, making 2006 a great vintage for mushrooms and truffles, but less great for wine. Meticulous preparatory work in the vineyard started to pay off for those who had ensured their grapes were well aired and not too tightly packed.
It was very clear during tastings that the earliest red wine grapes to be picked, particularly Merlots in Pomerol and Graves, had notable freshness and appeal – particularly in relation to the Saint-Emilion grapes, which generally ripen a bit later and in some cases just did not seem to have managed to ripen their tannins fully, a phenomenon exacerbated in some cases by over-enthusiastic extraction. There seems to be a particular cluster of rich over-achievement in Pomerol just west of Ch Cheval Blanc (whereas most red Graves are simpler, prettier wines). As both Jean-Pascal Vazart of L’Evangile and Jacques Guinaudeau of Lafleur were keen to point out, it was important not to have cultivated the soil too much. If the ground was hard and compact, most of September’s heavy rain ran straight off into drainage ditches rather than being absorbed into the soil to dilute the grapes.
The other winning combination seems to have been northern Médoc Cabernet Sauvignon, generally not picked until the end of September, by which time the phenolics, particularly tannins, seem to have reached reasonable ripeness. I heard no-one speaking up for Cabernet Franc in 2006, a definite casualty of the cool August and wet September – and Petit Verdot seems rarely to have ripened fully.
The damp September made things potentially difficult for sweet white wine producers and it is not generally an exceptional year for Sauternes – except for the most extraordinary success at the very top level.
quelle: www.jancisrobinson.com
Samstag, 21. April 2007
bdx 06 - sweet whites - jancis robinson
publication date: Apr 20, 2007 es sind doch einige enttäuschende weine darunter - nicht immer sauber & klar vinifiziert. die besten jedoch sind grossartig. die besten, nach meinung von jancis robinson sind : Ch Caillou 2006 Sauternes 17 Drink 2013-22 Ch Clos Haut-Peyraguey 2006 Sauternes 17 Drink 2012-20 Ch Coutet 2006 Barsac 17 Drink 2012-30 Ch Haura 2006 Graves 17 Drink 2010-15 Ch de Malle 2006 Sauternes 17 Drink 2010-16 Ch de Rayne Vigneau 2006 Sauternes 17 Drink 2010-20 Ch Rieussec 2006 Sauternes 17 Drink 2010-20 Ch Guiraud 2006 Sauternes 17.5 Drink 2013-22 Ch La Tour Blanche 2006 Sauternes 17.5++ Drink 2012-25 Big and heavy and all weight though not desperately fine (it plays the weight card). Lots of green notes plus lots of sweetness. Completely embryonic. Impressive weight and length. Chewy finish but well integrated. I actually wanted to swallow this, which can’t be a bad sign. Very clean and vibrant and clean. Long too.
L’Extravagant de Doisy-Daëne 2006 Sauternes 18 Drink 2010-20 Very deep colour and exotic and wonderfully peachy and dried apricot informed with excellent acidity. This certainly explains why Doisy-Daëne did not shine more brightly in the blind UGC tasting – it’s amazingly concentrated! And surely one of the sweetest bordeaux produced in 2006. Wonderfully exciting and rises totally above the vintage reputation. One of the best Sauternes. Already lots to find here – maybe one does not have to wait too long for it to reveal itself.
Ch Climens 2006 Barsac 18+ Drink 2012-30 Tasted as usual from many different barrels before the final assemblage although we did taste several pre-assemblages, including two samples which differed by just 10% in terms of their ingredients and yet tasted completely different. Spooky, and partly a question oak age, but still very elucidating. 16 days and 4 stages of harvesting, 13 September - 4 October. The total harvest was less than half that of 2005 but within the average for the last 10 years. Near catastrophe when there was a violent wind storm on 5 October, causing a 36-hour power failure and they had to get an emergency generator to operate the press right through the night. To quote Bérénice Lurton: ‘We end up having a strong nervous system in Sauternes!’ If Yquem was a big step above the rest, Climens was at least half a step above the rest. Very complete and dense with wonderfully smooth texture if in some cases a little lighter than some years with a distinctly green tang to some lots. Still some astringency but very fine tannins. Good concentration and good acidity too. Ch d’Yquem 2006 Sauternes 19 Drink 2015-35 Unbelievable wine – with so much more concentration and richness than the other examples of 2006 Sauternes tasted immediately beforehand. Yet with no shortage of life either. Amazing smoothness, richness and depth spreads all across the palate – even better than I remember the 2005 at this stage. Edge of caramel already but the tingle of fresh green verdure. Great texture and lift and weight of sweetness. No volatility apparent whatsoever (unlike some others) – in fact Pierre Lurton said the VA levels were lower than in the last 30 years. Great finesse – wonderfully pure.
Donnerstag, 19. April 2007
1979 vosne-romanee "les suchots" - barolet
2. flasche am 19.04.2007 - 2,5cm, feingliedrige sehr komplexe nase, sehr mineralisch, rote mürbe früchte wie erdbeere & himbeere, touch tabak & erdig, am gaumen rassig, satte mineralität, packende säure, reifes leicht sandiges tannin, grüne walnuss, kompakte elegante struktur, änliche noten wie in der nase, fordernder wein, langer von mineralität begleitet abgang - nichts für liebhaber schmeichelnder weine. absolute klasse. weitere 10 jahre 1. flasche am 29.11.2006 - 3cm dezente nase nach astwerk & etwas himbeere & , edel, kalkig, nasse mineralität, etwas menthol. am gaumen satte balance, reife seidige tannine, schöne klare säurestruktur, menthol, touch leder, waldfrucht, etwas erdiges, leicht karamel, nasse mineralische noten, weite aber eher feste struktur, grosse rasse & stil, vornehme art, ein grandioser wein - burgund in bester manier!! sicher noch 10-15 jahre. 3 std.: nase wird offener, am gaumen wikt der wein nun etwas generöser, ansonsten keine veränderung.
muss das sein?
dass die alkoholschraube immer weiter gedreht wird, ist nichts Neues. dass der alkoholgehalt immer wichtiger wird in wettbewerben, ist ebenfalls nichts neues. vor einigen tagen hat mir ein freund einen 2004 melis aus dem priorat offeriert. mit 15,5 vol. auf dem etikett gingen meine augen schon weit auf, ich war also gefasst was da kommen würde. nun hat der wein, was den alkoholgehalt anbetrifft, zwei seiten. die erste ist, dass die angeblichen 15,5% (es werden dann wohl eher 16% gewesen sein.....) perfekt eingebunden waren - will heißen ein enormer extrakt hat den alkohol abgepuffert und um 15-16% vol. abzupuffern bedarf es eines spitzen lesegutes. auch wirkt der wein nicht gemacht oder künstlich aufgepumpt - sondern er bringt die bedingungen im allgemeinen, des jahres und der lagenspezifischen bedingungen ehrlich und ungeschminkt dar. also = optimales lesegut bis zur höchstmöglichen reife endet in brutalen alkoholwerten & somit in portweinartigen strukturen. die zweite seite ist dass der wein einen erdrückt. es kommt einem vor, wie wenn mike tyson am gaumen zugange ist. solche weine muss & wird es immer geben und wenn sie das extreme sprich die randerscheinung darstellen, dann ist das in ordnung. nur zum typischen weinstil sollte solches nirgendwo in der weinwelt einzug halten. sigi hiss
Dienstag, 17. April 2007
St Emilion classification suspended indefinitely
April 16, 2007 - Sophie Kevany
Donnerstag, 12. April 2007
ruinart brut nv
eine flasche die mindestens 8 jahre in einem keller gelegen hat - unter sehr guten bedingungen. anfangs eher dezente nase, sehr hefig & frisches brot, ganz leicht verbrannter toast, reifer boskop, quitte, gerannte mandeln, elegant & perfekt balanciert. am gaumen sehr cremig wirkende perlage, weniger druck als normal, leicht mineralisch, frische säure, kalkige noten, trocken, kalter rauch, etwas feuerstein, dezente hefe, leicht toastig, reife birne & apfel, leicht stumpf am mittleren gaumen, nach hinten etwas abklingend...könnte länger ein, reifer champagner den nicht jeder mag.
Rolland leaves negociant system, starts own company
April 9, 2007 - Jane Anson in Bordeaux
Mittwoch, 11. April 2007
deutsche meisterschaften der weinfachberater
hier die komplette pressemeldung der deutschen weinschule in koblenz
Donnerstag, 05. April 2007
osterprobe
es ist ostern oder besser gesagt in ein paar tagen wird es soweit sein. ich werde zusammen mit meiner familie und freunden die kinder die eier suchen lassen. die erwachsenen - wobei man da manchmal zweifeln könnte an dem erwachsen sein :-))) - werden die eier in alte weinflaschen umtauschen. jeder bringt so 3-4 weine mit und keiner weiss vom anderen was in dessen oster-rucksack steckt. sicher ist nur, dass es wohl höchst interessant werden wird. eines vorab - es wird eine flasche 1907er haut-medoc & eine 1947er st.-julien dabei sein. eine im chateau abgefüllt, die andere eine händlerabfüllung von hertiers in einem perfektem & guten zustand. ein paar sauternes werden sicher auch ihr leben lassen. der bericht wird nach dem ostermontag hier erscheinen. erholsame feiertage sigi hiss 1907 fourcas hosten - mid shoulder: untrinkbar, auch nach 1 std. belüftung untrinkbar, aber eine schöne mundgeblasende flasche. 1947 gruaud larose - fast top shoulder: ähnlich dem fourcas hosten in der aromatik nur mit etwas mehr substanz - aber halt nur etwas, madeira & auch die stinkiger alter käse - untrinkbar auch nach 1 std. 1961 brainare (duluc-ducru)- top shoulder: diese flasche war sehr gut - deutlich besser als die 12 gabriel punkte,, deutliche reifetöne, flüchtige säure welche den wein leider dominiert - ohne diese ist dies ein sehr balancierter & samtiger wein, sehr tiefe & komplexe nase, laub, anfangs sehr klare reifste erdbeeren, trockene mineralität, mit luft verliert sich die flüchtige etwas. am vorderen gaumen sehr tiefe & komplexe art, ganz auf balance, seidig, samtene tannine, etwas rinderfilet & blutorangen, der mittlere gaumen geht so weiter aber mit dem leichten einfluss der säure, etwas mokka & mürbe art, filigran, getr. feigen, brotkruste, hinterer gaumen & der abgang sind extrem von der säure dominiert - schade, scharf, hohl, etwas rumtopf. 1966 la lagune - base of neck: unheimlich junge rotbeerige nase, reife johannisbeere & brombeere, zeder, etwas an pinien erinnernd, unreife walnuss, sehr typische lagune nase. am gaumen wieder unheimlich jung, körnige tannine, reife & saftige säure, dezenter alkohol, sehr extraktreich wirkend, noch sehr saftige & frische frucht - dito nase, deutliche mineralik, kernige struktur im besten sinne - will heissen hat nicht die balance eines st. julien, sehr langer rotbeeriger, saftiger abgang. sicher noch weitere 10 jahre mit viel vergnügen zu trinken. mein gastgeber hat noch eine 12 ohk im keller.......unbedingt kaufen. 1995 dominus:offene sehr elegante & komplexe nase, frische & getrocknete kräuter zusammen, touch trüffel, eukalyptus & tannennadel-duft, hat auch was pinothaftes, rote an wald erinnernde früchte - nichts von marmeladig...überladen oder fett! am gaumen kraft gepaart mit tiefe & eleganter struktur, körnig reife tannine von höchster qualität, sehr reife säure, dezente mineralik, wieder frisch geschnittene kräuter, etwas minze dabei, kalter rauch, eher schwarze früchte, sehr langer druckvoller leicht erdiger abgang, sicher noch weitere 15 jahre. hervorragender wein. 1919 climens - halbe fl., upper shoulder: "trockene" nase, gedroschenes korn, etwas staubig, brotkrumen, etwas orange & heu, zitronat. am gaumen frsiche säure die dem wein sein Rückgrat gibt, dezente mittlere süsse, etwas mandarine & zitrone, wieder korn, rosinen ganz im hintergund, mittlere frischer abgang. halbe flasche & 1919 - ein erstaunlicher wein. perfekter stilvoller aperitif! hält sich auf diesem niveau sicher weitere 5-8 jahre. 1923 sigalas rabaud - mid shoulder & ohne etikett, zu 90% 1923, eine 3 war deutlich auf dem korken erkennbar & von der stilistik war es kein 1933: sehr dunkle farbe, sehr konzentrierte & voluminöse nase - wow, bitterkaramel, saftige rosinen, deutliches blockmalz, feinste creme brülee, birnenmus, auch touch mocca, geröstete haselnuss, gewinnt an tiefe & komplexität nach 1 std.. am gaumen eine barocke ausladenede struktur, mollige dunkle süsse, runde stützende säure im hintergrund, aromatik exakt wie am gaumen, ergänzt durch eine toffee note, eine perfekte balance, steht unglaublich lange am gaumen, extrem langer rosiniger abgang, besser als der 1928 sigalas-rabaud, ohne probleme 15 jahre & über mehrere tage zu genießen, ein erlebnis bester güte! 1928 sigalas rabaud - upper bis top shoulder: die schriftlichen notizen sind verloren gegangen & deshalb ist die beschreibung aus dem gedächtnis & somit nicht 100% gesichert: elegante & eher helle nase, brioche, helles karamell, getr. aprikosen, touch bienenwachs, leicht toastige aromen & kräuter. am vorderen gaumen herrliche balance & elegante süsse, frische säure die aber nicht spitz ist, auch etwas dunkler honig, mittig mehr druck am gaumen, kraft, süsse geht zurück, touch bienenwachs, der abgang wird deutlich alkoholischer & die säure steigt leicht an - kritik auf sehr hohem niveau, eine klare bitterkaramell-note begleiet den Abagng, sich weitere 10 jahre. auf der 28/29 probe von jürg richter war eine optimale flasche 20 punkte. ausserdem hatten wir noch einen 2000 weissen burgunder sj von johner - leider war die flasche nicht in ordnung, sehr moussierend & deutliche aufsteigende bläschen in der flasche- evtl. bsa auf der flasche (die übliche dazugehörige schärfe war aber nicht zu erkennen). desweiteren einen 1990 sauternes der fehlerhaft war (unsauberes lesegut und / oder schleichender kork). ein 2005 riesling von diel der noch viel zu jung war.  
flaschenalterung, farbe & niveau - j. robinson
Sam Chafe, research scientist now retired from Australia’s CSIRO, sent these thoughts on screwcaps back in 2004. He has clearly been rummaging around in his cellar quite a bit since then and sends the following interesting observations on what he has learnt in the interim.
Recently, the manner of maturation of wine in bottle, especially white wine, has been a topic of great interest and controversy. The defenders of screw-caps, as a replacement for cork, maintain that wine in bottle under these closures matures well, and that oxygen, as supplied by ingress through cork or from the lumens of cork cells, is unnecessary. Their argument is supported by certain experimental evidence, where wines have matured in hermitically-sealed containers or in crown-sealed bottles, and by the few wines experimentally sealed by screw-caps (or their equivalent) which, after three to four decades, have showed full maturation.
The contrary view, of which I have been a supporter, is that wine in bottle needs oxygen to mature and cork allows this. Therefore, cork is the better choice, notwithstanding the occasional occurrence of corked wines. However, I have had cause to reconsider my opinion.
I have always routinely sorted wines of a particular type in terms of bottle ullage such that the most ullaged bottles are drunk first, the proposition being that the greater the ullage the more oxygen available to the wine and thus the more advanced the maturation. However, I noticed recently that this did not necessarily follow for white wines. Some bottles with greater ullage seemed to be less mature than bottles with less ullage. Then, I decided to check the colour, as best it can be done through usually coloured bottles. Deepening of colour in white wines is associated with greater maturation and so it proved to be in my wines. But the very interesting observation, to me, was that there seemed to be a rough negative relationship between the amount of ullage and the deepening of the colour, that is, the less the ullage the deeper the colour. This was completely contrary to what I had expected.
These observations were made on wines with 10 to 20 years of bottle age and may not have been evident when the wines were young. My sample is small and, further, the relationship did not extend to wines which were severely ullaged, by two inches or more, where the wine was badly oxidised. However, my experience has caused me to, when possible, sort white wines by colour and not by ullage.
By extension, therefore, the proponents of a reductive maturation in bottle may be right. The postulation might be that with limited oxygen availability, maturation proceeds at a given pace; but a greater amount of oxygen (greater ullage) counterbalances this maturation (as when reductive elements in wine prior to bottling are removed through oxygenation) and retards it. This proposition may receive support from observations on the breathing of wine: here, in my experience, wines ‘go backward’, that is, they become ‘younger’ than before breathing; thus, exposure to oxygen reduces the extent of bottle maturation and freshens up the wine. I have encountered this on numerous occasions, regardless of the state of maturity of the wine. However, the proposal may be inconsistent with the reputed slower maturation of wine under screw-caps, although perhaps that has yet to be validated.
The big question then remains as to whether such a process operates in red wines. Or, rather, why shouldn’t it? Limited evidence suggests that it does, and what applies to one type of wine should, to a very large extent, operate for another, although the high tannin content of red wine may mitigate the process. The colour in the bottle certainly can’t be used as an indicator and, until the proposition of the inverse relationship between ullage and maturation is established, or otherwise, there is little to go on. And I am left wondering whether to drink my most ullaged or least ullaged bottles of red first.
And what of old, mature reds with highly saturated corks and consequent significant ullage? If we assume that the primary maturation process is reductive, the gradual release of oxygen from cork cells must be a mediating process. Perhaps by slowing development through the release of oxygen, cork allows the wine to achieve its highest quality. And while this is conjecture piled on conjecture, I wouldn’t dismiss cork just yet. Perhaps this antiquated ‘200-year-old technology’ still has a critical role to play
Mittwoch, 04. April 2007
Swiss researchers can tell chips from barrels
Haut Brion drops La Tour
April 4, 2007 - Panos Kakaviatos in Bordeaux
Dienstag, 03. April 2007
1959 gevrey chambertin - daniel sanders
3cm, 1. cru petite chapelle sehr viel flüchtige säure die erdig, nasser schiefer, mürb, pflaumenmuss. am gaumen dominiert die flüchtige mit einer brutalen "klebstoff-fahne", erdig, trüffel, nasser waldboden, ganz weiche rund säure, sehr dezentes samtiges tannin, mineralik, noch ganz wenig rote reife mürbe frucht - erdbeerig, die flüchtige säure dominiert im abgang - scharfer eindruck. 2 std.: die flüchtige säure nimmt nicht ab, ab mitte gaumen dominiert sie, sicher ein ganz beachtlicher wein ohne diesen fehler. schade. 2. tag: untrinkbar.
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